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Gator, and you visual guys,
I will post the pics in the Modifications section since I don't know how to attach them to this post. Here are the written details. (Maybe someone with the knowledge, can move the pics to this post for me?)
I measured for the center of the 15/16" hole by making a mark 1 1/2" up the transom, to the starboard side, from the center of the keel. Then I measured straight up vertically 1 1/2" from that point. The photos will show that this is very close to the center of the transom, just far enough to the side to avoid the piece of stainless that is is the keel line. I would suggest you use 2" for the first measurement however. When I drilled the hole the paddle bit just knicked the stainless center piece and made the removal of foam inside a little harder than it should be. Also it will move the plug mounting screw away from the stainless plate. No photos of the raw hole placement, sorry.
I mucked out as much foam as I could with the paddle bit, let the area dry overnight and then vacumned out the foam still inside. I used a painters can opener to scrape the foam out from inside the cavity.
I then put Rule around the backside of the plug flange and the entire surface area that would contact the transom. I used the wiggle method to be sure the Rule was evenly spread inside the hole when the flange was inserted. I used 1/2" SS screws to attach the plug flange. That length screw will not penetrate the outer transom wall and create a possible leak point later on. I made sure the screws were snug but be careful not to over tighten. I then put a bead of Rule all the way around the outer edge of the flange to be sure of the seal. As Dick cautioned in this thread, the transom is not absolutely flat and a good layer of Rule is important to be sure all the space between the flange and the transom is filled. The additional bead of Rule around the outside was just for more peace of mind on the seal issue.
Viola, a clean, functional install. Took very little time.
codfish
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