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I had to change my lights on an old boat. I took some trot line and tied into the wires and taped them with duct tape several times not to pull out. then I went to the switch and started to gently pull, then it turned into a tug of war...finally I got the trot line/ wire fed back to the switch. after I did that i cut the trot line and and tied the new wire to the end and pulled the trot line till the fresh wire was back and it left me with plenty to work with.
Note about copper wire that water will travel along way inside the sheath and electrolysis will break it down deep into the length.
when I worked offshore as a commercial diver I had to make wiring water proof to extreme depths... I still used the same techniques when working on my trailer or boat just to be "safe".....
1. make sure there is plenty of slack and if not sure ad an extra 12" or so.
2. I skin the ends 1 inch back from the end if using old wire skin back until it is shinny again and an inch from there. replace if you cant find shinny wire.
3. use sand paper or emery to polish the wire.
4. Place the wire end to the halfway over lapping the other wire to be joined.
5. twist together tightly.
6. then I use a small butane soldering torch ( from radio shack) because it heats fast and is very portable with out electric cords, and solder the wire until the whole connection is tinned.
7. then I use liquid tape after the wire is cool to touch, and let the first coat dry.
8. I give the wire a "torpedo wrap" with electric tape and add a second coat on top with liquid tape.
9. then a second wrap of tape on top of that.
any open ends that need to be connected to switches and such I skin back and tin the wire first and then seal at the sheath with liquid tape to keep moisture out. before bending and connecting to hardware.
hope this can help
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