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Putershark, You are correct, it is a two person endeavor. I also forgot to mention that you have to alternately open and close the bleeder valve as you pump up and down on the coupler. Open on the down or pressure stroke, close on the up or "refill" stroke. That keeps air from entering the system. Must be done at a slow speed, no need to rush the pumping action. Valve can be opened and closed with fingers or a box end wrench left on the valve fitting. Does not have to be closed tight or opened very far during the fluid transfer.
I enlist the help of my valentine to do the pumping and I work the valve and do my best to catch the fluid as it squirts out. I think you will be surprised how fast the old fluid disappears. Just be sure to keep the reservoir full so you do not suck air on a down stroke. Yes, it will take most or all of a large can of fluid to do the whole system. I also do the rear axle first, wheel side farthest from the coupler line, so fresh fluid fills the line past the front axle junction and the rear junction. Next do the opposite side rear axle and move then to the front axle and you are getting fresh fluid to those cylinders because the main line has already been replaced.
Makes quite a mess on the ground. I try to catch the fluid in an old coffee can and protect the garage floor with cardboard.
The photo shows a 12" Crescent wrench placed on the coupler lip. You will be surprised how easy it pumps when the bleeder valves are open. I had to upload the photo to my album since I am in a hurry and don't know yet how to reduce the file size so it can be attached to this post. Search by name "Coupler Pump Handle".
codfish
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