Triumph Quality Control suggestions

[NCangler]

Okay I'm starting this thread in order to solicit constructive input from Triumph owners that had an issue with a new boat purchase shortly after delivery of the boat. This will highlight quality control items that we can share with Triumph as areas that they need to watch or give attention to.

So if you had a problem with your NEW Triumph Boat (not the motor, but the hull) immediately after delivery you can reply to this post to list what the problem or issue was. This will not be a griping thread so don't post gripes and commentary, I'll delete them. Just post items that you think should have been installed better or caught before shipment. I can then provide that information to the folks at Triumph which would be constructive information for them. Sound okay? Play nice.

I will also follow this up with a list of what the factory installs on the boat and what the dealer installs. Of course when you purchase from a dealer you need to go thru the dealer for warranty repairs and if necessary the dealer will work assist in getting Triumph involved in necessary.

Randy

[PileDriver]

Posting this as a suggestion to Triumph.

There has been a long standing issue with hulls getting water into the inner hull. While the addition of the inner bilge drains are definately a move in the right direction, they can only allow for draining of water to a certain point. Hence many owners have added transom drains to remove this water from time to time. Anyone whom has completed this modification knows the dripping can go on for a long time (days if not weeks). So with the issue stated here is my potential solution.

During the manufacturing process, a drain tube running the length of the keel could be inserted. This would be sort of a reverse drain field pipe like those used in septic systems, of course on smaller scale. This tube would provide a place for any water to accumulate and if it is ported to a transom plug, it could be drained quickly.

[jmuduke]

2007 170CC - trolling motor panel installed at factory - wires were not connected securly to the trolling motor panel - resulted in tripping breaker on trolling motor first 3 times out.

Resolution - took it to the dealer - dealer rewired the connection where the wire is connected to the trolling motor panel. He commented that original wiring job was substandard as he tugged on the wires and they came out of the panel. I will note this in the factory survey I just received in the mail this week. Hope this helps. Great idea for a constructive post!!!!!

Hope this helps.

[ILLOGICAL GGC]

Piledriver
The Temp These Boats Cook At Would Not Allow Anything Other Than Brass To Be Used And I Think That Will Be Cost Prohibitive . But You Are On The Right Track That The Molds Need To Be Designed/modified So That No Water In Between The I/o Hulls Can Be Trapped And Not Drain To The Transom For Removal As Was The Case In Some Early Models

[PileDriver]

I was thinking about this even more after I posted it. Since the current models have a SS stringer system, I was thinking the pipe could be made out of the same, say a 3/4" ID with 1/4" walls. This could actually increase the keels rigidity. In the 215 cc you would need about 10' per side. These tubes would have a total of 238 cubic inches which means they would hold about 3/4 of a gallon per side.

Given the surface area of the tube, the drain process will also speed up since all the water wouldnt have to migrate through all the foam to the back of the boat. Instead gravity would just pull it two its low point where the tube sits.

As for the manufacturing process, nothing would have to change with the exception of the tubes being mounted in mold. Even the injection can occur the same way, as the tubes could be reamed out after the foam has been inserted. As for cost, in the quantity they would buy in, I would guess a buck a foot would be about right but even if it was 10 bucks a foot it would only add 200 to the cost of manufacturing. Seems this would be less then the potential of warranty calls.

Anyways just a thought to pass along

[Codfish]

My suggestion has to do with the rod holder tubes. Two of mine are so collapsed that I cannot put rods into them. They are difficult to work on so I have left them alone.

In looking at the problem I found that the wall thickness of the black plastic tubes, used for the insert, was insufficient in strength to hold back the expanding foam. The foam expanded and crushed the thin walled tubes to a point they are nearly totally collapsed. This rendered them unusable.

The simple fix of course is to use a thicker walled plastic and avoid any collapse. Can't cost much.

Anyone else have this problem. How did you fix it.

Codfish

[ILLOGICAL GGC]

that was a problem on my 01 210cc and it appears to still be out there --good one codfish. i cut a broken shovel handle i had laying around the length needed to be hammered straight into the tube a little at a time until i got a passageway--not full size ,but it accommodates the smaller light action rods

[PileDriver]

On the rod holder issue, clearly the facotry fix is to use a thick walled tube as Codfish stated. However, as a repair to exsisting boats couldnt we use a piece schedule 40 pvc pipe? Maybe even put an edge the inserted end so it can cut its way through the foam as it is driven in? We could also use a coupling fitting for stop ring.

[Codfish]

Thanks Berto, I will try that fix soon. I have jammed my gaff hook into one of them but is is so tight it is hard to pull out when I need it.

Piledriver, My problem has been getting to the existing tubes and removing them so I could install a heavier gauge tube. I am afraid that if I drive in a smaller but heavier tube it will get stuck and I will not be able to remove the excess so I will not be creating a larger space, just more stuff jammed into the tube. Try taking the gray colored cover off to get at the tubes, it isn't as easy as it might look. I tried and had no luck. I did not want to damage or scar the boat so gave up when the cover did not easily pry off. That is why I haven't fixed it yet.

Keep trying guys.

Codfish

[PileDriver]

In my ole logic 210 I had a similar issue in removing them, as I was working on a modification to drain the gunnel rod holders. I ultimately got a small pvc pipe, (3/8") and wedge it between the tube and the edge of the opening. This allowed it to collapse and then it could be pulled out. For a replacement, I found the sleeves you can get for your golf bag worked perfect!