shallow water questions

[couture]

have a new 170 cc /75 e-tec and mini kota saltwater trolling motor and have no experience in flats or shallow bay salt water...do have exprience in shallow freshwater lakes...is there a resource to learn how to handle shallow water (gulf coast of florida) and what are the limitations of the 170cc as far as how shallow can i operate in. I do know to go slow and wear polarized sunglasses...but that is my entire knowlege on the subject. any books ,videos that would teach me a thing or two thanks

[Jim Jenkins]

Couture,

Also have 170 CC. Mine is 2002 which allowed up to a 90 hp. on the stern. I have an 80 hp. 4-S Yam. (369 lbs.). Also have Bennett trim tabs and a Dole Fin. Mabe over-kill on a 170 but I can run on plane (18 mph min.) in 16-18 inches of water. Tabs down, motor tucked under; boat runs level to almost bow down. Three average size men on board with gear. Off plane, I need 2 ft. to putter along. Motor tilted up, bow mounted trolling need 9-10 inches of water to keep the Elec. prop under water. And speaking from experience, with no passengers and motor tilted up this boat can be walked along in 7 in. of water. Need 3.5 ft.to get up on plane which I can do within 3-4 boat lengths.

Fish 2-3 times each spring Chokoloskee (Everglades) and Pine Island, St. James City. Chokoloskee is very shallow in places. I use a depth finder and GPS to establish current knowledge at low tide on each trip to get comfortable with travel lanes to areas where we like to fish. Things do change. The 'Glades area has flat sandy bottom, flat muddy bottom and oyster bars that will eat your lunch. And there is a really bad coral rock ledge at the entrance to Chokoloski Pass. No bouys or day boards but PVC pipe and treated wood posts in various stages of visability. And I think they like it that way.

Basic seamanship watching for color, current, seagulls standing, will work for you if you keep in mind the major tides in this area. 4.5 feet is not unusual.

Anyone out there that has not got out and walked thier boat back to deeper water has never really fished the flats and bays of FL and NC. And probably any other shores washed by salt water on East or Gulf Coasts.

[special K]

Couture,

Mr. Jenkins is absolutely correct. Take it slow, especially now your winter tides are the lowest. There will be shallow spots that were not there during the summer. I know from experience. A good depth find could help(if you are drifting, if you're going fast it is already to late), but nothing beats learning color changes and current flows.

[elroy]

hi coulture,
I have a question not a answer, sorry. I have the same boat and motor and want to add a trolling motor. My question is what lb thrust and what is the shaft lenght of your mini kota and how well does it work {currents, tides ?}. I fish the coastal waters of Maine with lots of current. Pulled my boat out Dec 16th not bad for Maine. If any one else has answers that would be great. thanks, elroy. P.S I had checked the site but would like more info.

[couture]

i have not used it yet in salt water as it is a brand new boat..i have used it in freshwater in high winds and it worked very well on such a light slippery hull...i have no idea on thrust or shaft length as i am at work but i'll look it up this weekend and send that info monday.( my computers are at my business and the boat is 30 miles away on the lake at my house)

[Putershark]

I have several

• Install a BMS lower unit plate to help get the boat on a plane as fast as possible in such skinny water.
• Install a Skeg Guard for those times you do "thump" the lower unit also saves a lot of time by not having to re-paint it all the time
• Try and keep as much weight on the boat as far forward as possible to help keep the stern up.
• Try and keep the boat as light as possible (less draft)
• Pending trip, keep the fuel tank as empty (weight) as possible.
• If you have a hull drains that are of the ball and cage type, install flapper vales instead. The ball and cage make too much noise on the flats popping in and out.
• Shut down any depth sounders or fish finders (I don't have either) long before hitting any flat. If you have ever heard one running out of the water buzzing, you will know what I mean. The whole side of a Snook is one huge passive Sonar Array and stealth is key. This is also why I have a water temp guage on my dash. By having that guage I can find pockes of either warmer or cooler water that will attrack fish.
• Power poles are way cool BUT if you cannot afford one these work well http://www.cajunanchor.com/resell.cfm
• You will want a prop that will launch the boat as quick as possible because the sooner you are on a plane the less water you draw. Just make sure you know the area before flying across it
• I carry a line on mine that I can tie around me and get out and wade and pull the boat behind me if I so wish. Just remember that if you are practicing for any Redfish tour type of work, you are not allow out of the boat.
• A push pole may come in handy. I have one that is in sections and in a carry bag in case I need one. Most times though, I just use the trolling motor or wind drift. Speaking of such most fish are not spooked by a "slow" moving trolling motor UTILL you change speeds on it.
• I posted a link to an excellent free tidal software some time back. Though I will fish on any tide, it is nice to know when I need to leave a place to be able to get out before the hull is high and dry
• If you have one, the leaning post is a excellent perch for scouting for fish.
• Use the search tool for finding past posts on these items and the Flats Fishing section has some other threads that may come in handy

[Jim Jenkins]

Elroy,

On my 170 CC I have a bow mounted Minn Kota Riptide 12v. RT55/SC/H 55 lb. thrust. ($470.00 mounted and wired with quick removal plate in 2002) Use just one deep cycle battery located under the console and wired to a rubber cap plug on the bow. This motor is a hand control not foot pedal or other up grades. KISS works for me.

Rarely need the full power (5-fw/ 3-rev) of the trolling motor when working banks or flats. Position 1 or 2 is good for working the mangrove banks with the high end speed used when changing locations with electric. The 170 's light weight and low profile in the wind plus shallow draft obviously makes this a nice boat for this type of fishing.

Hope this helps.

[couture]

Elroy... my set up is a mini kota 55 thrust riptide and i have a hand control with a 30" extension to reach it sitting down in the front swivel seat that i had dealer install. the battery is a single mounted under the center concil
and a plug in at the front for the power cord to the motor wirins. it worked out very well this sunday in high winds and it the lilly pads and hydrilla on lake istokpoga. don't know the shaft length but it's just right for the bow mount on the 170cc. hope this helps

[elroy]

Thanks Jim and Couture for the info. I'm going to look at the motor mounted trolling motor, it's a bit more $$ but looks easy to use and install. All I need to do is buy the wife a nice gift for her birthday and it shouldn't be a problem. thanks again.

[cagrove]

Originally Posted by elroy

I'm going to look at the motor mounted trolling motor, it's a bit more $$ but looks easy to use and install.

One more thing to think about: The motor mounted trolling motors have to have the motor down in order to use them. Since this thread is about going into shallow water you may need to raise the main engine up thereby making the trolling motor useless. There are many times when I raise up my main engine and just use my bow mounted trolling motor to get me into and out of really skinny water and/or thick weeds. I have a 24 volt 71lb thrust Motorguide with a 51 inch shaft. Just my 1/50th of a dollar.