New & have a bilge issue

[Coastalchix]

Hello Everyone. We are the proud owners of a used 2001 Logic 17 CC with a Johnson 70hp engine and only 40 Hrs! We just got the boat last week and we dock it behind our house. We take it out at least once a day and in the last couple of days, it has been raining alot. The previous owner told us that we had to go out to the center console and hit the bilge switch to drain it. But all it does is squirt out a few drips of water. We can clearly see that there is plenty of water in the back and in the two back compartments.
We hit the switch to off, power it back up and it does the same. Sometimes it runs about 10 seconds but then it stops. When we lift the back compartments where the battery and the oil tanks are, they have water and the water has some stuff floating in it. It looks like clean water with maybe some dirt and leaf debris.

I have reviewed the posts and someone recommended that the bilge pump be removed and clean. Does anyone know how to do this on this boat. Specific instructions would be great. Also, if anyone else has this issue and it is not the Bilge pump, please advise.

I am planning on shop vacing the dirty water in the morning, and then I will have a better guage on how quickly it fills up again. Thanks everyone!!!

[NCangler]

Welcome aboard Coastalchix and congratulations on the 17! I'll let someone with a 170 Logic suggest how to clean the bilge. But if it is like the bilge unit on my 215 you simply press on the sides of the unit to free it from the 'cradle' it is attached to then clean out the screen cover then reinstall. Be sure that the screen is covering the pump intake when you replace it. The bilge pump in your boat could very well be different so hang on for some other input.

[Jim Jenkins]

CoastalChix

Bilge bump is located under the round screw in plate just in front of the engine. May be a bit difficult to open if not opened recently. Lube the threads a bit when you reassemble.

It is a tight fit for me but facing aft, the pump is on the right side of the center line.

Pinch the tabs while lifting the pump out of the mounting base. There is enough slack wire to inspect the pump impeller. Then remove and clean the stainless screen that is just sitting in the base. Feel around and clean the accumulation of junk which may include tree seeds, leaf debris, fish scales (from bait) and anything else that may have been hosed down to the bilge over time. Usually this stuff can be picked out by hand after it has dried crusty.

Reassemble by placing the screen in the base. Snap the motor and impeller in place by just aligning and pushing down until the snaps click. You can pull up on the pump without pinching the clips to assure that the pump is correctly reassembled.

I check my bilge pump prior to each trip to the fishing destination. Typically 3-4 days of the boat being in the water at the marina with the same days of operating and fishing. After one unexpected and unplesant experience of blocked screen and slow pump performance-- routine cleaning and no more problems.

Good luck with your great purchase. My 170 CC a 2002.

[Coastalchix]

Thank you so much for all of your help. It had everything caught that you said except the fish scales. It now works perfectly. I'm so excited. I will be going cruising in it later todayt and give it the full test.

THANKS!!!

[saltydawg]

well how did the test go

[Coastalchix]

The test went okay. The boat hates to idle, but I have a friend that came over and tuned it up a bit. We got new spark plugs, ordered a fuel filter ( my local dealer was out of them) and bought all new oils and maintenance items. I think we just need to run it so that it works out all of the kinks. So far, it has been a great ride. We are actually taking it out this morning before it gets 95 degrees. Thanks everyone!!!!

[saltydawg]

If my boat sits up for awhile before getting run I will put super gas in it and a little fuel additive and let it warm up until the tattle tail gets too hot to touch then start to open things up until it gets real good and hot "blow out the carbon", if the plugs are still in good shape just built up I use a little wd-40 or carburetor cleaner and a brass brush to clean them up also the plug caps that connect onto the plug wires get a little steel wool and q-tip treatment to polish them bright to make better contact too....