General Trailer Maintenance Guide

[Cincinnati]

At low tide I just loop a line around the wench stand to the bow/port cleat and let the truck do the launching. Much easier than trying to push over 2,000 lbs off of the bunks.

[ILLOGICAL GGC]

something i saw on ship shape t.v. that will be helpful to all owners old and newly getting started, is to remember to use 1 hand when backing and put that hand at the 6 o'clock position on the steering wheel . you can turn the wheel in the direction the trailer needs to go instead of opposite which drives me crazy the times i forget to do this.
GGC

[Putershark]

Originally Posted by IL-LOGIC-AL GGC

something i saw on ship shape t.v. that will be helpful to all owners old and newly getting started, is to remember to use 1 hand when backing and put that hand at the 6 o'clock position on the steering wheel . you can turn the wheel in the direction the trailer needs to go instead of opposite which drives me crazy the times i forget to do this.
GGC

Along those same lines, I also fold up my bed cover and put down the tailgate and the rear glass on my truck so I can "see" the rig as I back her down the ramp. Some of our ramps get kind of steep as the tide pulls out and by doing such, helps to make it a one man operation again.

Also once you learn how deep to dunk the trailer and the boat still "stay" on the trailer, driving on and off the trailer is not a bad option ether. Helps if you have the those PVC pipe covered "guide ons" on your trailer when fighting with cross winds (190 and smaller) though the factory 210 trailer with it's 6 bunks works quite well also.

If you do elect to push her off like I do many times, if you get the wheels covered (though not the fenders usually) you can just unhook the wench strap from the bow eye and it gently push / float (or you can drive) it off the trailer. I though never back a boat down the ramp unless the wench strap is snug for I have seen more than one go sliding (steep ramps) right off the trailer land on the ramp and bounce (not a pretty sight) all the way into the water way faster than the driver could back it in deep enough too float it... Your local ramp "angle of attack" and tides though dictate how you can handle such.

Dave

[OspreyVic]

OK, today was trailer maintenance day.

We put new Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Grease in each hub. To us, that means pumping new grease in till it gets a real firm body on what is comming out.

We also removed each tire and greased the studs with the same grease. Then because our trailer is all aluminum, we used a torque wrench till we got to 90 lbs. Other trailers might require a different setting.

This is a once a year chore for us. After a couple trips to the launch site, we will check the torque wrench again.

Hope everyone thinks to take care of their trailers.

[Stalker]

How do you greese the hubs? I don't see anywhere to put greese.

[NCangler]

Does your trailer have grease hubs or the oil bath hubs? The oil bath hubs are used on the newer models of the past couple years and are clear hubs where you can see the oil level in them. The grease hubs have plastic caps on them. Just remove those to access the grease fitting.

[Stalker]

I have oil bath. Thanks.

[pamarine]

C Firth,

West Marine (along with most boating suppliers) sell rolls of Bunk Board Carpet manufactured by C.E. Smith under the Shipshape label. The carpet is quality marine-grade carpet already cut to a width to wrap around your bunk boards, all you need to do is cut to length.

[BarryB]

The oil bath hubs have an allen head screw used for drain and fill. The oil used is 50 or 90 weight gear oil. If the oil is clear in the window, leave it alone. If it's milky, there is water in the oil and need to be changed as well as checking out the seal to find out why water got in.