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Triumph 150 Discussion of the 150 series


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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2007, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSeid33859 View Post
That sounds good. I'll hook the garden house up to the motor and start it before leaving the house. Is this a safe procedure? The engine wont overheat? Warming the engine up at home sounds like a great idea and it may help me resolve the starting issue. The funny thing is I've rented pontoon boats with 115 Yamaha's that have been setting for a week or more and they kick right over and idle with no problems and I was hoping my boat would respond like that. Guess I got one with numerous quorps.
you will have to purchase a set of "earphones" that attach to the end of the garden hose and then slips over the water intake vents on the lower unit. make sure the water is turned on before starting and when the motor starts to run that the motor "pees" out the tattletaleright near the base. Older motors with more hours on them will usually start and idle easier because everything loosens up and "seats" in not quit so stiff. oh and don't try to "run" the motor in gear on the ears..... just a low idle.
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Old 07-05-2007, 02:48 PM
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I had to use the muffs on my 60 hp merc but the garden hose has been the only out of water hookup I have used since I got the yamaha 150 hpdi and I have had no problems running it out of water that way. of course I only idle and I make sure water is coming out of all the places water should be moving through before I start the motor.
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Old 07-07-2007, 04:45 AM
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I had to use the muffs on my 60 hp merc but the garden hose has been the only out of water hookup I have used since I got the yamaha 150 hpdi and I have had no problems running it out of water that way. of course I only idle and I make sure water is coming out of all the places water should be moving through before I start the motor.
I droped the boat off at a Triumph Dealer on 7/6/07. They are going to try and look at the boat next week and hopefully they will be able to resove the problems.

i.e The motor has a place to hook a hose on the side of the motor. Its for flushing the system out if you use in salt or dirty water. Is it safe to run the engine at idle while flushing it out or are the muffs still required?
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Old 07-07-2007, 04:59 AM
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Do not run your motor with a hose hooked up to the flush fitting. Use flush muffs/earphones or a cut down trash container that will keep a water level at or above the cavitation plate. The hose fitting is for flush your motor only while the motor is not running. You can damage you motor by running it with water going through the hose fitting. Bob.
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Old 07-07-2007, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by saltydawg View Post
one thing about outboards is that the are all a little quirky, no offense meant here but sorta like women...what works to get one going wont necessarily get another one going right off...
I have had a bunch of outboards growing up (well My dad did) I rebuilt a few in the garage for me and bought a bunch used that wouldn't run and got them going, and even a couple of new ones.
my starting procedure is pretty standard for what ever out board I have at the time but you have to find the sweet spot to get yours going.
1. I make sure the fuel cap vent is open, on top of the tank..the outboard
with a good fuel pump will create a vacuum that will drive some one nuts
trying to figure out why the motor will run great get on step and then bogg
down and sometimes die. just to start up again and go through the same
thing again again and again.
2.the fuel bulb needs to be pumped pretty solid before starting ,and the
arrow needs to be in-line pointing to wards the motor.
3. The choke, is usually a key choke now days, you have to push the key in
while turning over the motor to choke it.
4. the cold start control lever, this is the lever that lets you throttle up the
motor while it remains in neutral. Be careful with this one, I use my right hand
to turn the key and push in to engage the choke as I reach over with my
left hand at the same time and ease the cold start lever up slowly until she
kicks over and runs then I back off of it. I like to take an new outboard and
hook it up to the garden hose and start it up several times at home to find
what it's sweet spot is. Depending on the motor it has to high idle with the
cold start a little longer than others. At the dock after it starts and runs you
have to give it a couple of minutes to "warm" up before shutting the high
idle off and shifting into gear. I live about 1/2 mile from my favorite ramp
and I like to turn my hose on and start up before I leave and let it Warm up
at home and then unhook, run and launch. can't begin to tell you how many
times guys have asked me who worked on my merc to get it to start and run
like it does at the ramp unloading in the morning ( if only they knew that it
was already warmed up at the house). hope this can help a little. outboards
are less like cars and more like women like that, gotta warm them up a little
before it is time to play.
Is there a procedure to check that the internal full tank on the 150cc is venting properly. I had a newer car once that had the check engine light come on. The dealer diagnosed the problem right away. The full filler cap was not venting properly and it ended up being an easy inexpensive fix.
This was one of the concerns I told the dealer about when i dropped it off for sevice yesterday. To bad I dont have my boat this weekend. Hope you guys have fun.
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:21 PM
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BSeid33859 , sorry I don't know the specifics on the fuel tank of the 150
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:12 PM
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Updated Service Repair Status on my New 150CC

Quote:
Originally Posted by BSeid33859 View Post
Is there a procedure to check that the internal full tank on the 150cc is venting properly. I had a newer car once that had the check engine light come on. The dealer diagnosed the problem right away. The full filler cap was not venting properly and it ended up being an easy inexpensive fix.
This was one of the concerns I told the dealer about when i dropped it off for service yesterday. To bad I dont have my boat this weekend. Hope you guys have fun.
7/13/07 I contacted the dealer today and was informed the leak has been repaired. They replaced a broken live well pump. (I'm wondering how the live-well pump could have gotten broken on a New Boat!) They are still trying to resolve the performance issues, i.e. will start after much difficulty,wont idle and it feels like I'm dragging anchor while under way. They've replaced the prop,plugs etc so far but the engine still misses at 1100 RPM. They are now going to put the motor on the computer for diagnostics to try and determine the cause. I should get my boat back next week assuming the problem can be diagnosed and corrected.
My third weekend without the boat. Hope you guys have fun on the water this weekend.
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Old 07-13-2007, 08:11 PM
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hmmm might be a shot cylinder..loss of compression???
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Old 07-21-2007, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by saltydawg View Post
hmmm might be a shot cylinder..loss of compression???
The dealer said after diagnostics they have determined the problem is the carborator and they have ordered parts to fix and and the parts should arrive next week,the boat is on priority for repairs and they are to call me as soon as it is fixed. I have my fingers crossed.
Bill
7/21/07
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Old 07-24-2007, 06:55 PM
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whoa, Nelly!

Quote:
Originally Posted by BSeid33859 View Post
The ouside water level was about two inches below the top of the transom while under way.Not under way it was three or four inches below. The boat felt like the anchor was draging while under way and I didnt have the anchor on board. I just assumed the volume of water leaking into the hall was causing that effect.
I'm wondering how you got it up on the trailer with that much water in it! I mean, that sounds like a staggering amount of water to fill a boat that high, and at what, 62 pounds per square foot? Trailer tires must be in real good shape to withstand all that abuse...
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