Removing helm cooler seat on a 2003 150 COOL

[knotskip]

I want to make some mods to the Cool, like change out the stationary cooler seat to either a swing back like the new 150 CC's or possibly an ajustable pedestal seat since I do a lot of fising with a buddy and he gets the nice fishing seat I added up front and I fish off the nasty stationary back cooler seat. Not suited for fishing!!!!! Do you know if I can remove the cooler and frame, and screw down the pedestal base using the same size screws that the frame used. I want to put it "dead center" of the console where the cooler was. Is the gas tank going to be an issue in the center??????? and, same for a new swingback cooler seat. Will the screw mountings be an issue for the gas tank?????

Also, then, I'm thinking of reusing the frame with the back rest from the cooler seat and mount it around the front of the center console, baitwell seat by removing the rear crossbar, that way, the frame top will act and look like the grab rail of a "real" center console in front of the windsheild.

any suggestions would be appreciated!!!!

Thanks a buddle!!!!!

Knotskip

[NCangler]

I checked with the factory for you on this and here is their response:

To put in a pedestal seat you would need to pull up the floor and put
backing plates in to keep it from pulling out. The stress point for a
pedestal seat is much higher than a cooler seat not to mention the
screws for the cooler seat also attach to a stringer under the floor.
My suggestion is to put in the new style of cooler seat which you can
order from any Triumph Boats dealer. This is going to be your quickest
and easiest replacement not to mention you run a much lower chance of
putting a hole in you fuel tank that runs under the port half of the
center of your floor up to nearly the console.

[knotskip]

Thanks for the info.
I wasn't sure where the tank under the floor was located. I did pull a screw from the frame of the exisiting cooler seat on the COOL and it does not extend through the floor board material. The floor appears to be 3/4" and the seat frame flange is 1/8" so the point may just break through the under-surface of the floor board material. Doesent appear to be stringer at the four locations the seat frame is screwed.The screws are not long enough anyway. The floor board screws are aprox 3" to 4" Port and Starboard of the seat frame flanges. They are longer and hit the stringers.
My only problem to the seat from a new 150 CC is that my 150 COOL model has that elongated and longer console. Will the new seat fit! I guess the dealer can give me the dims on it before I order it.

I will take lots of photos as I do this project. I still want to reuse the stainless seat frame and mount it up around the front of the console for a grab rail.

thanks!!!!!

[pamarine]

The older flip-flop seat that is on the 170 and 150 is COTS made by Todd and can be purchased from West Marine, Boater's World, and Bass Pro. So far I have only seen the new style seat on Triumphs, although I swear I have seen it in a catalog somewhere.

[JimW]

Is one like this what you need?

Swingback 'Cooler Plus' Seat - White (cooler sold seperately) - iboats.com

[NCangler]

In response to:

My only problem to the seat from a new 150 CC is that my 150 COOL
model has that elongated and longer console. Will the new seat fit!
I guess the dealer can give me the dims on it before I order it.

Here was the factory answer:

It should it has the same basic foot print as the old cooler seat.

[Streamer]

Knotskip,

For my 170 CC I wasn’t happy with walking around the cooler to get to the back of the boat and the flip back was a pain pulling it up then flipping it.

When you walk around the cooler you tend to hang against the side too much which can be unnerving when you are in rough water. To remedy this I removed the cooler and frame and put in a pedestal seat. The one I ordered slides up and back and swivels 360 degrees. I love it!!! Plus, when the person fishing up front needs to move to the back and also has a fish on, it is not a tricky balancing act.

I would partly agree with NCangler that the BEST way is to remove the floor and add a backing plate to support the weight leveraged from the pedestal.

However, what I did was use special mollies that you can slip through predrilled holes through the floor except where the pedestal holes lined up with the stringer. There I just used good quality stainless steel screws.

I have had it this way for 2 years now without an issue. I will also say that I am 250 pounds in size so we are talking about some significant leverage on the mount. Plus, if you have a low profile console your seat height will be shorter than mine, thus reducing the leverage on the mounted base. My buddy also has a Todd pedestal seat in his 150cc and his stem can’t be more than 15 inches in length.

When you mount the pedestal, favor the screw holes away from the gas tank. In other words if you line up the holes at 12 and 6 o’clock then the gas tank side holes will fall in at 8 and 10 o’clock as opposed to 9 o’clock which WILL puncture the gas tank.

I have one caveat to all of this and that is that there may be different diameter pedestal bases so pick one that a smaller diameter rather than a larger diameter one to avoid that gas tank. Check your work!!!

Hope this helps. I love my setup.

Jim
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