a variety of newbie questions, apologies in advance

[Nate Haler]

The boat is a 2002 170DC, but I think these questions are of a general nature, hence the placement here.

Had the boat out for its maiden voyage yesterday. Hour meter now shows '2', some of which the dealer put on. Boat/trailer/motor are all new, it was a leftover from a dealer closeout...

Here's what I'd like to know:

1) The boat came with two keys, one of which is attached to a red, loopy lanyard thing with a plastic clip. The other is a 'spare' key I presume, and was simply attached to a foam key fob. I attempted to start the boat with the spare key, because I assumed a key was a key, and I didn't plan on falling overboard (especially on a reservoir going 2k RPM for an hour). Wrong, it seems. The boat would not start using the spare key. So, I assume that clip gizmo on the lanyard is somehow a necessity (mechanical or electrical?) to enable the motor to start. Anybody know the story? And, if you lose that key and lanyard, then what good is the spare key? Can you rig up something for the spare clip gizmo?

UPDATE: per a Yamaha dealer in my area, the 'kill switch' is disabled by pulling it out, just the tiny bit that results from the (plastic) clip being snapped onto it. You can buy a spare clip/lanyard, or in a pinch you could just wrap something around the switch post to achieve the same thing, like a tightly wound rubber band, cable/zip tie, etc.


2) This boat has a 60 hp (4s) Yamaha, and there's a crosspin thing in the engine assembly to limit (I presume) how much you can lower the engine. My pin is in the bottom-most of the six holes. How do I know if that is right, and maybe should I just put the pin in the center until I figure out what the boat likes best, trim-wise? The motor has power trim by the way.

UPDATE: per Yamaha's engine drawing, the item I described (poorly) is a 'trim adjustment rod'. On my setup, they rig it with the rod in the bottom-most of the six holes because that enables the most travel range of the engine, i.e. moving it down past vertical. This is only practical because my boat has the power trim. Otherwise, the 'trim adjustment rod' would enable the user to place the rod in the sweet spot and easily enable the engine to be manually (or automatically) lowered to the stop. Given my extreme unfamiliarity with my boat's performance -- having one hour on it to date -- the trim adjustment experience will be at least a few hours away...


3) When is it appropriate to flip the bilge switch? I ran the boat with the 'main' plug in, and both of the smaller plastic plugs that I assume are drains from the baitwell compartments. Any tips on how the bilge works (and when) and what I should do to ensure proper use of it would be much appreciated.

4) Speaking of the baitwell compartments (one in front of each of the two consoles), how do those work? One has a thing that comes out the side, and one has a taller pipe sorta thing that sticks up from the bottom. Like I said above, I inserted the plugs for their respective drains in the stern, so I'm wondering how does water get into the baitwells... Does the 'aerator' switch handle that task?

That's it for now. Can hardly wait to get back onto San Pablo Reservoir (northern California, near Orinda) for my next hour of break-in -- at 3k RPM. Thanks for any help you can offer...

[NCangler]

Hi Nate. First I would suggest that you have your dealer where you bought the boat go over each of those items with you. That said let me take a stab at a couple of them even though I have a 215 Chaos.

1) The engine will not crank without the lanyard clip hooked up. You can test the spare key by clipping the lanyard hook on while cranking with the second key. You can buy spare lanyard clips at most marine stores, but be sure to get one with a similar clip as they do differ between different engines. Also, if you look in your Triumph manual there should be a page that shows the lanyard hookup. For the greatest safety you should clip the lanyard to your belt loop so that if you were knocked off the boat the clip would come loose and the motor would stop. I don't think the majority of boaters do this but it is the recommended safety procedure.

2) I'm not familiar with the 60HP motor and don't follow what you're describing so I'll let someone else (or your dealer) take that one.

3) If you have an automatic bilge then it should kick on when there is a certain amount of water in the bilge. You can also use the manual switch when in doubt. If you notice your bilge running a lot of the time you will want to check on what is causing it.

4) The baitwell pump on my 215 is located in the bilge compartment. There is a 'blue' lever handle on mine that has to be turned to open the water access for the baitwell and for my on board washdown. Once that lever has been opened I plug the baitwell and turn on the baitwell switch. Mine also has a cutoff valve in the baitwell itself to keep water from going back out the same opening when turned off. I put a screen over mine to keep bait from being sucked out the inlet too. I also added a tall drain pipe that I stick in the drain plug opening that allows the baitwell to fill to a certain level then drains at that height. Sounds like that might be what you have too.

Hope this helps. I'm sure some others with more 170DC and 60HP experience will jump in too.

[Nate Haler]

thanks NC. As to visiting the dealer, I bought this boat from a dealer on a closeout, and they are 750 miles away.

[NCangler]

That is a bit of a trek isn't it! Maybe he could clear up a couple of items over the phone though. I'm sure you'll get some more responses here soon. Take care!

[fridaysoff]

Nate,
I have a 2004 170 CC with a 60hp 4 stroke Yamaha. Hopefully I can answer a couple of questions for you. On my stern there are 2 black plastic screw type plugs at the very bottom of the back of the boat. They are not baitwell drains. They are your bilge plugs. Do not put your boat in the water with out them screwed in.If you do you will find out if your bilge pump works. your boat will fill with water. The baitwell drain on my boat comes out the stern, but it is a white round hole with no threads to screw a plug into it. It stays open all of the time. If there is no water in the baitwell it will not cause any problems.
The trim adjusting rod thingy always stays in the lower hole. You'll learn to adjust your trim with the power tilt and trim as you learn your boats performance. I always take off with the motor trimmed all the way down, it comes up on plane faster that way. Then trim the motor up slowly until it seems to look level (the top of the motor) while you are running. If you can get a friend or an aquaintence that has run a boat in your area for a while to go with you the first time or two that you go out. Local knowledge goes a long way. Also check your local coast guard or community college and sign up for a safe boating course. It could turn out to be priceless!!!. Good luck and enjoy your new toy.
John D.

[Nate Haler]

Thanks a lot for the info, John!

A follow-up to the bilge concern if you don't mind: So let's say you're on the water, and waves come over the bow or it pours rain and you get water in your boat. I presume the bilge pump is intended to deal with this. But with the bilge drain plugs in, how does the water get out of the boat?

There's another through-hull provision, with threads on the outside, just to the right and slightly higher than the baitwell drain you mention. Is that where the bilge pump output would go? Or is that something else?

Cheers from the left coast,

Bill (aka Nate Haler)

[fridaysoff]

Nate,
I'm not exactly sure where your bilge pump would pump out. It should be a smooth finish hole, mine is on the port stern above the water line. The threaded thru hull may be your baitwell pick up (where the baitwell pump pulls the water from. Mine had a screen screwed on the threads. If your boat is on a trailer take your water hose and run water in your boat just like you would when you wash it.Leave the bilge plugs screwed into the stern. let your hose run water until your bilge pump comes n. It will pump the water out and you will see where it comes from. don't turn the pump on manually; let it come on automatically. It should pump the water out and then come back on in a minute to check again for water. Nate, the more you can learn about your boat in the driveway the more confident you will be on he water. I have a 170 CC hull, but it should be close to yours in detail. Good Luck!!
John D.

[cagrove]

Originally Posted by Nate Haler

4) Speaking of the baitwell compartments (one in front of each of the two consoles), how do those work? One has a thing that comes out the side, and one has a taller pipe sorta thing that sticks up from the bottom. Like I said above, I inserted the plugs for their respective drains in the stern, so I'm wondering how does water get into the baitwells... Does the 'aerator' switch handle that task?

Nate,
Your baitwell is used by inserting the "taller pipe sorta thing" in the hole in the bottom. You then turn on the "aerator" switch and adjust the incoming water flow by turning the end of the "thing that comes out the side". This will let water come in and fill up to the top of the pipe. You can leave the "aerator" switch on and water will drain out of the tube. When you want to empty it, turn off the switch and pull out the tube. Water will drain out. You may also have a smaller black rubber plug for the baitwell that you insert into the bottom to keep water from backflowing from the drain. Use this if you want to use the baitwell for storage of dry items. At the stern of the boat, you have a through hull fitting with external threads on it. A screen goes on the threads to keep out weeds and other junk. That fitting is the baitwell pick up (where water comes in). Do not plug it. Also very near that is another through hull fitting that does not have threads. That is the drain. Do not plug that either. The only plugs that are used on the back of the boat are the screw in black plastic ones (with a red rubber gasket). There should be two threaded holes near the bottom. You must have these in while operating the boat. Also in the front of the boat there are two "fish boxes" (storage areas) with holes in the bottom. These also need to be plugged if you want to keep water out. BTW, I have a 2003 170CC. If you have any other questions, please feel free to send me a personal message. I'll be happy to answer as best I can. Good luck and enjoy your new boat. You're in for some great times!