Trim Tabs or Hydrofoils for 170 BASS?

[Troll]

My 2002 170 Bass has a 70 HP Suzuki 4 stroke and usually won't get to plane without someone walking toward the bow while accelerating. I have read all of the previous threads from 2005 forward and can't tell whether hydrofoils or trim tabs are the best solution. I am not fond of having holes drilled in the plate on my motor to attach a hydrofoil. I am also not too fond of the extra wiring and plumbing for hydrolic or electric trim tabs. I found Nauticus Smart Tabs on the net and am wondering if anyone has used them. If so what size did they get and did they improve getting on to plane and top end speed? My current top end speed at 5600 rpm on smooth water is 33 mph per my gps. All help will be appreciated. I am in California so I had to go with the heavier 4 stroke when I bought my boat and since my old boat had a Suzuki 2 stroke which I liked, I stayed with Suzuki.

Thanks, Troll

[Putershark]

I would go with a BMS plate and then look into how you are loading the boat and see if you can get some more weight (ballast) forward if possible?

Then I would work on prop upgrade for it looks (but check your engine manual to make sure) like you are not turning enough RPM's at WOT. This would indicate you have too much bite (I would think pitch) for your rig.

[rkola]

I've got a 2003 170DC with a 75HP Yamaha 4S. I did not have any problem getting up on plane, but did install the BMS plate to allow me to stay on plane at lower speeds. It not only did that, but really cut down on the "wandering" at slow speed, and according to the better half, improves the overall ride at all speeds. I did the install myself, and it probably took all of 40 minutes, including time to remove the prop for clearance for my drill. If you do go this route, be sure and put a rag or something over the prop area, since the aluminum chips fly around a bit.

[Troll]

By design the 170 bass is quite stern heavy. In addition to the 4s motor, you have a 21 gal fuel tank, a 15-20 gal live well, starting battery, and three more storage compartments. The trolling battery is wired for placement under the console. I have also mounted a 4hp 4s kicker motor port side and this must add an aditional 40 - 50 pounds. Putershark's suggestion that I move some weight forward is well taken, but difficult to do. While I do store the anchor and a few other heavy itmes in the two bow storage compartment, there is not much else that I can move forward. I do keep the ice chest forward and do not put water in the live well until I land the first fish of the day. Even with an empty live well and only a 1/3 tank of gas, I still have the problems that I described in my initial problem statement.

Two of you have suggested the BMS plate, where can I get such a plate. Also, does it cause any steering problems when the water is rough?

Thanks, Troll

[rkola]

Look for the Stabilizer Plate #BT at http://www.bobsmachine.com/. Price, even with shipping, is comparable to anything I saw at Cabelas or Bass Pro, and the reviews on this site really convinced me to go with this product.

Ron

[rkola]

Just re-read your last post, and realized I didn't answer your question regarding rough water. I've only had my Triumph for a few months, so I don't have extensive experience. I did encounter some 3-4 ft waves on a local reservoir before installing the BMS plate, and similar water on a larger lake after installation. By allowing me to stay on plane at a lower speed, the plate gave me a lot more latitude in "tuning" my speed to the water conditions, and definitely smoothed out the ride (dried it out as well!).

[Troll]

With regard to the correct prop for my motor and boat, the Suzuki instruction manual says to get the pitch that with WOT produces RPM's 5200 to 5600. For elevations under 2000 feet I use a 17 pitch Suzuki alumimum prop and for higher elevations I use a Suzuki 15 pitch prop. Both produce RPM's at the specified range with WOT. If I use the 15 pitch prop at low elevations, I get serious over rev plus difficulty in controlling the RPM's over 4500. I discussed this with my dealer and we even talked about raising the motor one bolt hole, but decided that it would probably not produce the desired results. Suzuki makes a 16 pitch prop in stainless steel, but I do not want stainless as I fish in a lake with lots of rocks and have several minor digs on the existing alumimum props.
Troll

[CRIMAR30]

I have 170DC and it "wonders" at low spees also, it must be the same with all the 170's I guess. I'm thinking of putting a hydrofoil on mine, but it's only a few months od, so I', a little cautious of drilling holes in the engine, myself.

[fridaysoff]

Bob's machine shop stabilizer plate is the way to go. My 170CC did not wander side to side at low speeds but the stabilizer plate is the ticket for being able to plane at a slower speed. like rkola stated, it really makes a difference in rough water when you can still run on plane and stay dry. It does not slow the boat at WOT. It's smaller than the ole plastic "whale tail" and looks a lot better. Probably cheaper too. It takes about 30 minutes to install.I did not have to remove my prop for the install.
John D.

[zeecurt55]

Hey, I just want to say that I have installed trim-tabs on my 170 DC and love them! I have the same power setup as you DF 70, 15 pitch. Now I can plane out at 10-12 mph! It is unreal how much better my boats manners are since the tabs. Now I can adjust any listing isuue due to uneaven loads, push down the bow in rough water, less bounce etc. I could go on all day about trim-tabs on my 170! check out the inst-trim 10x8 for your 170, best investment ever! http://www.insta-trim.com