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Triumph 170 Discussion of the 170 series


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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2007, 11:10 PM
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My 150 came with a "Marine starting battery" not a marine deep cycle battery and the fluid level was low in it. When I'd start the engine it would shut off the fishfinder/GPS due to the lowerd amperage/voltage comming out, by the time I figgured it out the battery was toast.

The shop gave me a new replacement deep cycle battery for like $10 and the old battery.

Those water tube spedos are crap, I prefer the one in my GPS.

As for the speed RPM problem Do you have free flowing fuel? As it sounds like you are suffering from a restricted flow of fuel. Several things can cause this as in a tank vent plugged, line pinched, or a clogged filter or as previously stated a fuel line that's not fully snapped on to the engine.

The best way to start to trouble shoot is to unplug the fuel line from the engine and then take a quart size jar and attempt to pump fuel into the jar using the primer bulb you may have a check ball in the end of the fitting you will need to depress to do this(A pencil or 1/8" rod 6-8" long will work).

Pump the jar half full and see if you have a free flow, if you don't the bulb will go flat and stay flat then someting toward the tank is restricting the flow.

Were it me I'd reach over and open the filler cap and see what happens, if the bulb swells back up and fuel flows freely then the tank vent or the vent in the cap isn't working. if that doesn't do it them start working your way back to the tank looking for some sort of blockage or pinched line.

Do you have filters in the fuel system? they also need checked.

It's usually something simple.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 06-15-2007, 08:28 AM
DeerHunter
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I also had a clicking noise in my steering column; my dealer replaced the steering assembly and I've not had any problems with it since.
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:07 PM
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DeerHunter,
The clicking noise in my steering doesn't seem to be a problem, just a noise. Who knows, maybe it it a problem but I don't see it. I did have a steering issue with the boat (wheel would spin hard to right when I let go and boat would turn) but a simple trim tab adjustment took care of it. Now, wheel turns hard to left and easy to right but stays where I turn it either way. Any idea why it doesn't turn the same to both left and right? I can't figure it out. Thanks
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2007, 12:14 AM
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I think it has somthing with thw way the prop spins, just a thought.
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:24 AM
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the same reason a helicopter has a tail rotor ....engine torque.....for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction....
The spinning of the prop in the water makes the engine want to turn a the other way most engines have a small adjustable rudder on the bottom side to adjust for the engine torque.....This was very noticeable back in the day when outboard power boats were making the scene and the steering was a set of cables on pulleys that went from the helm to the motor.....you can also see it on the larger 150's with a tiller handle it will want to pull to the side....

I made a center console for my boat and had to adjust the position back and forth on the deck because even though the steering cable would reach if there was too much of a bend in it it was a booger to turn one way but easier the other... the torque helped like power steering to one side but made the other way hard. the steering cable should have a nice flowing curve to the bend....check the steering with out the boat running and it should be the same both ways....if it is hard unhook it from the motor and try to turn the motor by hand if it is hard maybe it needs some grease.. and try the wheel and see if it turns easy with out the outboard attached....might have a kink in the rigging
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2007, 03:27 PM
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I have a 2002 170 bass and with my Suzuki 4 stroke 70 hp had the same problem with the motor suddenly dropping and then regaining about 1/3 of the max RPM's. At first it didn't happen too often, then more frequently. I told the dealer and he had me bring in the boat and although he could not duplicate the problem, he merely changed all 4 spark plugs. That was 4 years ago and the problem has never come back. Try changing all 4 spark plugs yourself as the dealer said spark plugs are not covered under the enging warranty.

As far as your speedometer goes, there can be several problems. I know as I had a similar problem. The first thing to do is cut the vaccum hose (actually it is a small pressure hose) somewhere close to where it goes into the boat, but leave plenty of space so you can then splice it. Blow hard into the side that goes to the speedometer and see if you can start to get a reading. If you can, this means this end of the line is probably OK. Next look for a leak from the cut place to the engine. My guess is that either the hose is kinked or has come apart. I connected a vaccum/pressure gauge with a T to the line to see if I could get pressure while the boat was operating. I got none and then found out that my hose had a kink.

If the problem is your Faria speedometer, remember they cary a lifetime warranty from Faria. You can find them on the internet.

Just remember, Triumph did not make your motor, your battery, or your gauges. Unless Triumph did something incorrect in the installation, they are not really responsible for the problem. Also, who mounted your motor? If it was the dealer, they may be the party at fault.

Troll
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2007, 04:38 PM
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The speedometer went out on my 17cc. I checked the connections and couldn't figure it out. Then one day I noticed the that the speedometer works by air pressure coming from the motor. The tube had gotten pinched and cut open from me trimming the engine up and down. Basically it cost me $1.34 to fix it with a plastic tube connector from Home Depot.
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