Baitwell pump/switch operation, loose bolt.

[paulgw]

duplicated message removing this

[paulgw]

Boat was purchased new and has no mods. I now live a few hours from the dealer so I'd like to troubleshoot this myself. My baitwell pump (Rule Pro Series 700gph) has quit working. I don't think it has ever worked properly but don't know because there is no documentation on operation of it in the boat literature. Is there just on and off ? should it run continuously when on or does it cycle? I assume the power is run through the main switch to the pump switch. Is that correct?

Are electrical schematics available?

While I was trying to chase this down I realized I have no idea what the little bulb under each switch is. What are they? Also noticed that the bolts inside the console securing the grab rail have a flat washer but no lock washer. One of four bolts had worked loose. Anybody else have similar experience.

The last boat I bought before this one was in 1971 so I am a little behind the times. Heading to FL in 10 days and need this thing ready to fish any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

[NCangler]

The "bulbs" underneath the switches are your circuit breakers. If you lose power to something try pushing that to reset the breaker as a starting point for troubleshooting. Regarding the livewell pump...on my 215 you have to flip the livewell/washdown pump feed handle so it will start pumping water. It is normally closed unless you need to run one of the two. The pump is located on my 215 under in the bilge access area. Could that be the issue?

[paulgw]

I thought they might be circuit breakers but they make no noise and you don't feel a "click" when they are pushed. I assume they must only reset to "ON", you can't trip one to "OFF" by pushing it.

The pump makes no noise, as far as the operation should it cycle on and off? ie 30 seconds on 5 minutes off? When the boat was new (12 hours and 1 1/2 years ago) it would fill the baitwell then shut off and run intermittently, I never new what was proper and factory guys were no help with this problem although they did some major repair of the hull that had a few bad finish spots. They steered me to the dealer who was always too busy to return phone calls.

Thanks for starting this and all the time .

[NCangler]

You are correct. You will not feel the breakers click unless they were tripped and need resetting.

The pump will not cycle on and off unless you have a baitwell timer on it to do that. It is either on or off and if it is running you would hear it. If you are not hearing the pump run then it is either an electrical issue or a bad pump. If it is still under warranty I would call the dealer and ask them to talk you thru trouble shooting it. If they insist on bringing it in (several hours away is tough) I'd contact Triumph Support and ask for Russ or Bryant. It is always best to go thru the local dealer whenever possible, as I'm sure they are closer to you than Triumph is. Perhaps someone else that is better at the electrical side of things will have some more suggestions.

[cagrove]

Paulgw,
NCangler has it right. When the switch is in the "On" position, you should hear the pump running. If you have a multimeter or 12 volt test light you can run this down fairly easily. Just remove the panel that has the switches on it and check to see if you have power running to the switch. Jump the leads from the multimeter from one terminal to the other. No voltage, trace wires back to battery to find out why. If you hear the pump come on when you jump the terminals, it's a bad switch ( or one that's been tripped). If it shows voltage and you don't hear the pump, you know it's between there and the pump. Remove pump and rig wires directly to the battery and pump. No running...bad pump. If it runs, there's a break in the wires from the switch to the pump. You can pick up a cheap multimeter (around $12.00) at most hardware or auto parts store if you don't already have one.

I hope this helps...let us know how you make out.