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Triumph 170 Discussion of the 170 series


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Old 09-28-2005, 09:35 AM
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Battery Switch

I have had a intermittant electrical failure my last 2 times out. I installed an On/Off battery switch in my 170CC last August. I am out in the salt about every other weekend. Once on each of my last 2 trips, after I have shut down the engine to drift or anchor I have no power on restart. Engine gauges are dead, motor will not turn, but my fishfinder is still running. The FF has a dedicated power line direct from the battery switch. Flip the baterry switch on and off a few times, while trying the key in between, and then poof!, I have power. All is well, the motor starts right up. I believe it is either the battery switch or the key switch. Anybody have an idea how to determine which? Remember, its intermittant. I just do not want to throw away money replacing parts. I will pull the battery switch this weekend to verify connections.
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Old 09-28-2005, 12:20 PM
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The first thing I would check is to see if the wing-nuts are TIGHT at the battery. Those things wiggle free over time and still power accessories but lose the amps necessary to crank the motor. Some people throw out the wing-nuts and crank down a couple of hex-nuts.

Second, did you treat your connections with dielectric grease or equivalent when you installed the switch? Corrosion could be a problem if not.

Beyond that, I'd just check all of your grounds under the console. I had one break loose once when banging around in 3-footers last summer.
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Old 09-29-2005, 06:05 AM
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I PUT THE SWITCH ON MY BOAT MYSELF AND IN THE DIRECTIONS IT CLEARLY STATED THAT IT WAS POSSIBLE THAT THE CONTACTS BETWEEN THE SWITCHES COULD GET CORODED AND THE WAY TO CLEAR THIS IS TO TURN THE HANDLE THRU THE OFF -1 - ALL -2 SEQUENCE A COUPLE OF TIMES TO CLEAN THEM. YOU SHOULD BE SWITCHING BETWEEN THEM AS YOU USE THE BOAT ANYWAY SO AS TO KEEP BOTH BATTERIES CHARGED WHILE UNDER POWER ON THE WATER THUS CLEARING THE CRUDE. I WOULD DEFINATELY DO IT AT THE DOCK BEFORE LEAVING OUT ON THE WATER EACH TIME ,SINCE YOU ARE ALREADY EXPERIENCING THIS PROBLEM.
ggc
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Old 09-29-2005, 08:45 AM
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But, ONLY do the switching with the engine OFF!!!!! Turning the battery switch to OFF with the engine running can damage your alternator.
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Old 09-29-2005, 05:32 PM
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THANKS FOR CLEARING THAT UP TY
I FORGOT ALL ABOUT ADVISING NOT SWITCHING TO "OFF " WHILE THE MOTOR IS RUNNING
GOOD SAVE!!
GGC
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Old 04-08-2007, 01:29 PM
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IMHO, anything short of proper installation of any marine electrical connection is a pre-emptive disaster for sure. As in Avionics there is never an opurtune time for a failure. here is a short list of must do's. All wiring marine grade i.e. tinned heavy jacketed copper. All connections to a post with marine grade connectors crimped and soldered and heat shrunk using di-electric silicone grease with a stainless washer, lockwasher and nut. All wiring should be tie wrapped at proper intervals to eliminate chafing and run thru a conduit and the conduit mounted rigidly to the structure if possible. This not my invention, It's THE WAY to have RELIABLE, SEAWORTHY, foolproof connections and wiring for the life of your vessel. It also gives you the way to eliminate one of the possible causes for failure out to sea. Never scrimp on the things to keep you alive. Just my 2 cents and 45+ years of boating.
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Old 04-16-2007, 04:59 PM
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Follow up

Not sure that I ever let anybody know what the problem was. Turns out I has corrosion in the Yamaha factory harness. Dealer replaced the harness (under warrenty) and all was well. Should not have happened in a 2 year old boat, but thats why they provide warrenties.
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