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| Triumph 190 Bay Discussion of the 190 series |
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The General Triumph "Tech Talk" forum has an Bay 190 inner hull section and covers this well. Dick at Merritt Marine says the installation of an inner hull drain is as simple as drilling the hole and installing another "bilge" type plug. It would be located directly between the existing bilge drains and is first on my list of things to do this weekend. Now, if you have a crack in your hull, does the water go there too or does it just get trapped in the "foam"?
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Drilled a 1 inch diameter hole center to the two bilge drains. Water has been dripping at a rate of once every 2 seconds since then...for over 24 hours and my boat is sitting level. Have about 1-2 gallons of water in the bucket now. Never gushed just a steady drip. Also note that there is no hollow area, you will drill right into foam after you breach the hull. Can't seal in the new threaded plug until it is dry....will inform when it stops draining.
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EMC - Thanks for updating the thread. I was at West Marine today thinking about tackling the drain hole project - counting the days until it starts to warm up again.
Keep updating as to the progress. I'm still on the fence if I will attempt adding the drain on my 190. Are you using a brass drain plug, or going with the standard plastic similar to OEM? |
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This my first post. I have a 19 foot and do not like the current drain plug locations. Can someone please explain the foam issue to a newbie as well as; Is this new drain being located at the very bottem center of the hull, which is lower than the OEM drains?. Mainly though, please update me on the foam. Where is it located and what is the problem with it. My boat seeps water for about 24 hours after I park it. Not much maybe 1 drop every 30 minutes . Thanks!
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I’ll make an attempt to answer this…. The boat is basically made in a mold with the inner and outer hull being one piece. The process is rotational molding where they put raw material in the mold in powder or granular form. The mold is closed, heated and rotated until all the material is melted and evenly distributed in the mold. I described this process so you can get an idea about the void left between the lower and upper hulls. This is the void that is filled with foam. This area is presumed to be sealed and water tight except for a few areas where components are installed i.e. rod holders, bow panel etc. Some of us have had problems with water getting into this “sealed” area and desire to drain it. Some have suggested that the center stringer will catch all the water and this is where the extra drain should be located on the 190. I have not installed one on by boat yet but it is at the top of my list when things thaw out here.
JR |
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Jr Gar is right in describing the process. I have been to the factory twice
and have seen the ovens/material(raw it has the consistency of fine sugar) and the molds being built.. The water seeps through the thru hulls and fittings if they are not 100 % bedded and/or bonded. The foam is pumped into the void between the inner and outer hull then sealed. At that point it is water tight..untill you start drilling into and thru it adding the water intakes ,mounting the engine,side rails, rod holders,etc. The oem drains are located at the low point of the bilge and do not adress the void between inner and outer hull. I believe both brass and plastic have been used with equal success and it is a diy project. Just look at the photo's already posted and do not spare the rule elastomeric... |
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