Trolling Motor Selection help needed, 190 bay.

[nocturn]

Hi all.
My wife just informed me that she would like to buy a trolling motor for my (new to me) 2003 190 Bay. Nice gal...

I tried a site search already on this topic. Couldn't find anything specific to my questions.

My questions are:

1) How many #'s thrust should suffice with a 190 Bay having a 200 lb man as well as say...100lbs of gear and beer? 80# +/-?

2) What determines the shaft length and what does a 190 call for? 45"?

I live on a freshwater Chesapeake bay tributary and plan on shooting to the saltwater bay every once in a while so a SW rig is probably what I should buy even if 95% of all my fishing/boating will be freshwater.

I will be going 24 V.

Thanks!!!!

[msmandel]

HI,

In various parts of this forum I've alluded to the 52 lb. Great White trolling motor on my 190 Bay as being insufficient to the task. I'm in the act of junking it in favor of either the 82 lb. 24V version, the 109 lb. (36 v.) or, in the best of all worlds, the new Lenco Drive 164 on the stern.

The 52 lb. will not move the boat against the tide and wind here in the Keys but works perfectly on calm days. I have the 50" version which comes up to my knee (I'm 6 feet tall). The 60" would be 10" higher but would also take up that much more space on the deck when not in use. Whichever way you go I strongly urge you to include a trolling motor stabilizer of some kind to hold the motor fast while traveling in rough water when the trolling motor is not in use. I installed a RAM mount and am very happy with it. Without it the rubber mounts on the Great White pulled right out of the deck when we hit a patch of rough water. Good luck with your purchase.

[jergofish]

I just talked to a Minnkota service center and this guy is GOOD! The rule for a trolling motor is that the blade center should be 20 inches under the surface. I was considering a Riptide 55 for my 195 that I'll be ordering shortly. He stated that the 55 was too small a powerplant for my boat, especially considering the winds on the delta. He thought the 70AP might do but the shaft length may be a little short and I'd have to wait to measure from the bow to the waterline before choosing the 70 with it's 52 inch shaft and the 80 with a 60 inch shaft option. He also reccomended the 24 volt system for boats as big as the 190/195, and said with a good charge, the right motor and the right batteries, the system will run all day.

Sounds like you should consider the 70AP if you're looking for an AutoPilot system. (I had an AP on my last boat and loved it. I could fish for 20-30 minutes at a time without a singlc correction of the motor.)

I got this from Cabela's web site while looking for trolling motor information.

Thrust

The size and weight of your boat translates into your need for power (thrust) and endurance. The basic rule of thumb for determining the amount of thrust you need is five pounds of thrust for every 200 pounds of weight. Don't forget to include the weight of your boat's contents in the calculation. To be sure that you have enough power, take the boat's estimated weight and add in its maximum weight capacity. A boat that weighs 1,500 pounds, and has a maximum weight capacity of 1,200 pounds would need a motor with 67.5 pounds of thrust. (1,500 lbs. + 1,200 lbs. ÷ 200 = 13.5 x 5= 67.5)

Volts

"Generally speaking, if you have a boat that is over 16 feet and you're a daylight to dark fisherman, you're going to want at least a 24-volt system. For the angler that goes out for a few hours on the weekend, a few times a year, a 12-volt system is going to be adequate, but for anglers who hit it hard all day, several times a week, a 24-volt system would be the minimum and a 36-volt system would be optimal. It's all about endurance and performance!"

Extended PowerElectric trolling motors have evolved into multi-battery systems because anglers wanted to be able to use their motors at a higher level of performance over longer periods of time. Having two or three batteries in series just gives you more capacity to draw from. Batteries for marine application have also evolved tremendously. In the beginning, the only option was to use the same type of battery that was designed to start a vehicle, which only requires a brief burst of power. Batteries that are designed for starting a motor perform miserably in marine applications, except for firing up your main engine.

Today, anglers can choose from beefier "deep-cycle" varieties including gel and dry cells that cost as much as $250 each. Top end deep-cycle batteries have thicker cell plates that store more electricity and recharge at a faster rate. Gel cell and dry cell batteries are ideal for marine application because they don't require maintenance, don't spill acid, and are more impervious to vibration, a real battery killer. The term "deep-cycle" means that a battery is designed for repeated deep discharging (cycling the battery to as low as 10.5 volts) without premature failure.

Good luck.

[jergofish]

Potentialowner, that pretty much corresponds with what Sunny at the service center said and he has the experience of working on the units every day, all day. He services other brands besides Minnkota and is the factory warranty center for them as well but states that, dollar for dollar, performance and minimum maintenance, Minnkota comes away a clear winner.

I found him after my MotorGuide AP blew it's gears and I needed it repaired. He fixed since it was under warranty but advised that in another 70 to 80 hours I'd be back. He was right. I invested in a Minnkota and never had to return until I called him for advice just recently.

What's also nice is that he stocks all of Minnkota's line and sells them at the same price as West Marine and Cabelas. Plus he gives expert advice on installation based on solid experience.

[Big Bites]

I have Minkota 24V, 65 lb. thrust, 54" shaft, quick release mount and remote control on my 04 190 bay.

Works great!!!!!!

[nocturn]

Well I bought a Minn Kota Riptide RT70/54" with autopilot. I'll hopefully be putting it on here in the next two weeks.

Thanks for the input guys. I realized a 80# rig was a little much so I went with the 70#.

Big Bites- Did you have to use a special mounting bracket or did you bolt it directly to your bow?

Thanks again guys...your posts saved me about $100!

[jergofish]

A quick release mount is available for your motor. It allows the entire trolling motor to be taken off with the pull of a pin. It's lockable as well. Might be nice when you want a clean foredeck. It sells for aboout $70.

[Marathon Runner]

I have the 24v, 82lb Motor Guide Great White and it works exceptional on my 2003 190 Bay. It has plenty of power to pull through the tides here in Jersey.

[keith1961]

i'm installing my old trolling motor on my new 190. its a minn kota auto pilot,65 lb. 24 volt. it has a 60" shaft......i,m hoping its not too long, i would like to switch it for a riptide saltwater series anyway.

any tips on cutting the access hole in the port side fish box. ?