Stumped - A Little... 190 Bay Questions

[Cincinnati]

Well, I've made it to Philly. Pulled the cover off the 2002 190 Bay last week and trailered her down from CT. Got my PA fishing license and thought I would do some 'work' on the boat to see if I could track down water intrusion issue from last year as I may start to slip my boat in the tidal Delaware river and northern Delaware Bay. I wanted to pull up the grey deck panel under the seat, but it was ruled down and was almost impossible to pull up. I did manage to get it loose enough to peek my head down there and have some questions...

1) Where is the fuel line connection at the tank on the 190? Seems like if I need to replace the antisiphon value or upgrade to alcohol resistant fuel line, I'll need to take the console apart - is this true?

2) There is a hose connected to the starboard-stern thru-hull that runs starboard strainer, then aft under the console, then up to somewhere - seems like it is connected to the fuel vent - is this true?

3) How the heck to you get the grey panel completely off? Looks like it is screwed in five-hundred spots. The panel appears extend all the way back and under the battery compartment where there are even more screws.

4) If I want to work on or replace my float switch for the bilge pump, do I need to crawl through the door to the battery compartment?

[AstroDiver]

Yes on #4. Make sure it's not a hot day. Remove the battery(s) for safety....and more room to move around. It will also be easier if you remove the seat/cooler if your boat has one. I have the 2001 Logic 186.
I've got to get back in there and add another bilge pump as a back up on the other side. I'm not looking forward to it...guess that's why I've put it off for over a year.
Have fun!

[Lazy Loafer]

To #3, I tried to get that panel off in order to make replacing/rerouting throttle/shift cables easier. No matter what I did they kept binding and hanging up as I tried to feed/pull them through behind the old cables. Yes, the panel extends completely underneath the battery tray where it is held down by even more screws, making it impossible to remove without, it looks like, removing the engine and dismantling the splash well. A real screwy setup, if you ask me! Since the live well pump and through hull is on the port side partially beneath that panel I hope it never goes bad or leaks and needs replacement.

[Cincinnati]

I'm bumping this up - hoping others can weigh-in.

Thanks for the thoughts so far guys. I got the boat out today in my new hunting grounds and landed a few stripers in the tidal Delaware River. Water temp was 56* in the flats.

[sritz05]

I have not been there. When you do go for it think twice run extra wires and conduit for future wishes. I cheated in the rear I put in three 6" access plates in the splash well and have another one waiting for a free moment. I was able to put extra bilge pumps raw water filter and electrical upgrades without taking off the floor. Fuel line thoughts are few as I question the need for a new line completly. Anti siphon valve I thought was under the console grey beef up panel and that you did not have to take up the console deck? Did you take that beef up plate loose it mad my throttle cables easy to pull. I think if I ever must take up the deck I will fab some T top beef up plates and pilot drill their locations. What is really fun is running 6 strands of marine 6 ga. from the back past the bait tank and thru a new larger conduit that I ran up front between the holds. Lot's of bloody knuckles.

[BrahmaFear]

Regarding #4 I agree with the last post here. I wanted a lot better bilge access to be able to install another bilge pump to starboard, add a raw water washdown system and have the ability to change out the livewell pump on the water. I installed another full size hatch in the splash well and at least I have another access point with some shorter reaches.

I had a bilge pump burn up once (almost literally) in my old boat and have a thing about being able to get to below deck areas quickly when the need arises. Unfortunately, most manufacturers (boat, car, you name it) are more concerned about production efficiencies than the poor schmuck who is trying to fix a problem.

[ILLOGICAL GGC]

answer to 2 is fuel overflow. you will def. have to remove the console to get below. some of us trimmed the gray battery board back to allow more access to the bilge. i actually moved my washdown pump from under the console to the port side of the access door and added a second battery back there as well ,so my bilge area was really full of stuff and a challange . was very happy the day i drove to georgia to meet the new owner half way and returned home to buy a 210cc
berto

[MolarBoater]

BrahmaFear, did you use the same type access panel that is used on the front of the center console? I have considered doing that if I ever needed to replace the bilge. I get light headed sniffing Ropalene fumes.

[BrahmaFear]

MolarBoater,

Not sure what size that hatch is, as my 190 has a center console from a 210 (long story short, I took a "leftover" 2003 190DC hull - unrigged - tore out the side consoles and flooring, and modified a 210 console and baitwell to fit. Believe it or not, the footprint on the 210 console is no bigger than the stock configuration and has lots more storage space. And I much preferred the 30 gallon oval livewell versus the stock setup. The result works great for what I want it for - live bait snook and redfish chasing in the 10,000 Islands area of the Everglades)

The splashwell hatch I used is the same one Triumph uses on the rear bulkhead behind the helm. Bilge access is awkward at best through that hatch, and I wanted to put another 1100gph automatic pump on the starboard side. I don't think there is any such thing as too much bilge pump capacity.

Since the splashwell area is not really a stressed part of the hull putting a hatch there is a simple as tracing an outline of the hatch, using a rotozip tool to cut it out, a little fine grinding to get a snug fit, applying some adhesive to the hatch frame and popping some screws in. Make sure your screws are not too long or you will end up with several places to tear your hands up when working in the bilge.

Hope this help.

BrahmaFear

[MolarBoater]

I have often thought about "capping" all those screws that stick out- inside the centerconsole and bilge. Very sharp!
BrahmaFear, you are a true master of the plastic combining a 210 and 190DC!