steering is stuck!!!---help

[BAYCOASTAL]

My steering would get quite stiff if the boat sat for a while, but yesterday I went to take it out and the steering would not budge. I have tried greasing and wd 40 etc. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what is the best way to handle this? I have a 2002 with a mercury 115 2str salwater. It appears the main steering cable is fine (the one closest to the cowling which has a grease fitting), but the other shaft which does not haver a grease fitting appears to be jammed.

please help

[Putershark]

Definitely need a good combination of both force and finesse to break it free without breaking something else in the process

I say the Blue Wrench (torch) would come in handy right about now, but just barley heat up the shaft and then let it cool back down and see if that helps. And BE CAREFUL not to torch up the whole boat in the process

And the application of a rubber mallet for a little impact shock may also come in handy on the end of shaft to help break free the rust. I do not though recommend trying to break it free by using the helm, and just "wiggle" the engine back and forth till it breaks free

[MolarBoater]

Hey BayCoastal,
Do a search and you will find an extensive previous thread.
Usually, the stainless steel cable will get stuck in the aluminum tube chamber mounted to your motor. Whenever two unlike metals are used, the weakest corrodes, hence, the aluminum corrodes around the cable locking it into place. Copious WD-40 and raw power to pull apart. You need to disconnect the steering from the motor and pull the aluminum tube off, clean and decorrode then pack with waterproof grease. Upon reinstalling, add the "CableBuddy" (@$30 WestMarine, etc) end nut to the tube which has a grease fitting so you can keep it pumped up with grease. The rubber washer seal comes out sometimes but maybe a second nut to use as a "lock" nut would prevent that.
Good luck and get ready to get messy!

[Fischer53]

I just discovered my 170 CC was frozen last Friday as I prepared to go fishing Saturday. Couldn't get it free and was not sure I could fish in a straight line all day, so a beautiful day went by. I have a 70 Yamaha on my boat and I started down the path of taking it apart, but it became apparent the if I took the frozen section out at the engine pivot the motor would have ended up in the driveway. Do not know if that is strictly a Yamaha issue, but would like a general description from Molar Boater on how he takes it apart and still deals with a 300lb+ engine. My boat is now at the dealers awaitng repair/replacement.

[special K]

I had the same problem a couple of months ago. I went to Auto Zone and bought a can of Liquid wrench-don't remember which one, but it was foamy. Let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then using a hammer and a piece of wood(to prevent damaging) I went to town. Once you break it free twist the engine back and forth, the whole time wipe and respray the arm. I did this quite a few times. The last time I took the boat in for yearly maintenance I had them take it apart and clean it good. Now when I get back from fishing and done cleaning the boat, I'll shoot some wd-40 in there just too make sure it doesn't happen again, I hope.

[MolarBoater]

Wish I had a pic but for a Suzuki df140, there is an aluminum steerer bracket bolted to the face of the motor transom mounting bracket, hence, when you steer, the motor pivots and turns.
The cable enters the starboard end of the tube and bolts to a ss rod inside and the rod exits the port side then to a pivot bolt and another short rod to the motor. Disconnect the pivot bolt and the 4 screws holding the steering tube onto the motor and it is all "free" to be pulled apart.
Your's definitely could be different since there's no mistaking the aluminum steerer tube bolted to the motor where the cable runs into it.
Good Luck, I'll take a pic soon and add it to this thread.
Molar

[Fischer53]

Molar - Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like the Suzuki engine stays attached to the mount when removing the steering cable. On the Yamaha the steering passes through, and seems to be part of, the pivot point for vertical motion. When you trim, the motor pivots on this assembly. The steering cable probably can be removed from the pivot tube when its not stuck, but of course thats the problem! Right now it all wants to come out and that would be bad.

[ksr5]

I would stay away from spraying with wd-40 after you free it up wd-40 breaks down the gerase and can actually make things worse i always use a marine grade CRC. I build machinery where i work and we find that our customers spray there machines with wd-40 and it breaks down the oil and grease and starts wearing parts out faster we advise them all to stop using it.