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| Triumph 190 Bay Discussion of the 190 series |
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Best Way to Trim Engine
Hello everyone,
I am rather new to boating. I have a 2008 190 Bay with the 115 Yamaha 4-S. I have found a method of trimming the engine that works fairly well to get on plane, but I'm not sure if there is a method most people use that works better. Can anyone explain the best method of trimming the engine to get on plane the most quick and efficient way and then the position to run in? Also, I have a problem where the engine squeaks terribly when moving up or down on the trim rods. No problem at all on the tilt rod. Another guy I know with the exact same boat has the same problem. We have the same dealer and both of us were told it was just the rods being dry of oil. It is especially loud after the engine has been run and then the engine tilted up while docked. It is a very embarrassing noise and it sounds really bad, but the tilt and trim seem to work fine. I've been around other boats and never noticed this though. I can put a light coat of oil on the trim rods and it stops for maybe one use of the boat, but quickly comes back. Does anybody have a similar problem or advice on what cause this or how to stop it other than oiling the rods at every use? Thanks for the help, Wade |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Saltwater Wade For This Useful Post: | ||
| The Following User Says Thank You to cagrove For This Useful Post: | ||
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Just put a small dab of waterproof grease on top of the rods. I had the same problem and one application per season solved it.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to trasbeck For This Useful Post: | ||
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I had the same noise coming from one trim rod on my 150 Yamaha. My local dealer sold me a can of CRC lubricant and instructed me to lightly spray around the base of the trim rods. It worked after only one application. The dealer thinks that the noise may be due to friction between the trim rod and a bushing. I don't know if he is correct but the noise has stopped. Hope that is helpful.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to LBI_GUY For This Useful Post: | ||
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How to trim...
Hard to write and much easier to show that is for sure. For me though it is all one constant movement... Now I was running boats long before aircraft however, I still cannot forget what one of my flight instructors taught me that applies to both and his words of wisdom were "Power is my Pal and Trim is my Friend" something you may want to keep in the back of your mind when running your boat through out the entire operational envelope. So with my engine and prop combo for me, trimming is all in one movement of throttle and the trim button and then less throttle again... As designed though, I have a launch prop mounted up so my boat jumps on a plane very quickly and will stay on a plane down to about 12 mph Here is my process though with the engine tucked in... (I do not subscribe to the application of having the engine tucked "all" the way in for me, that only makes it plow the bow) ![]()
These trim gauges though, are only used as a reference point and do NOT feel that in your boat you can only run at these marks. You may need to tuck you engine in more to get started, and then even run it trimmed out even further on the top. Just remember, that if you over trim out though, you will blow out the prop and only spin up the engine for no gain and more than likely loose speed. Now if you do not have one or the set, both a fuel burn gauge and trim gauge will help you greatly in both performance and adjusting both RPM and Trim for the best fuel burn rates. I HIGHLY recommend both, but the fuel burn gauge (if I had to choose one) will save you money in the long run. Now I just filled up the boat the other day, and my last tank returned me 1.68 GPH in over all running I did At almost 4 bucks a gallon for prem fuel, I paid off that fuel burn rate gauge (which is standard in the Honda digtal package) long ago and is a serious tool for saving you money at the pump any time you glance down and use it... Also remember that the tach can help and once on a plane "slight" trim adjustments can work wonders in allowing you to stay at the same speed (or go faster) while at the same time "tapping" back the throttle to lower RPM and fuel burn rate Once you get it all dialed in and learn how to run at a minimal plane speeds (around 20 mph or less) and in the 2500 to 2000 RPM range. You will see just how little fuel she is burning to keep it there. One also has to remember, that the hull will stay this way in smooth water and in a straight line... Once you start to make a turn however, you will need to start tucking it back in to keep from blowing out the prop. Also rough seas states may mandate running with the bow a little higher and the boat a little slower than normal to stay dry. Sometimes if really rough, I may drop the bow down lower than normal to help her track though quartering waves (that changes on a contant basis) as I plow though some rough waves in pass. Much of this I do without even thinking about it. Trust me though, once you get about 100 hours on your boat without making radical prop changes, you will learn all the "sweet spots" for just about any running condition and cold sea water in the face makes for a EXCELLENT teacher! Ha-Ha...
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Dave the ComPutershark Boat Name "Sarcosuchus" 190 Bay equipped for Flats & Jungle Warfare
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| The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Putershark For This Useful Post: | ||
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Thanks!
Thanks to all for the information. I will try the marine grease and CRC to stop the squeaking and some of the tips by Putershark on trimming. This website is really a great tool and is one of the main reasons I decided to go with the Triumph. Take care.
Wade |
| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Saltwater Wade For This Useful Post: | ||