Livewell Issues

[LadiesDrinkFree]

Hi all, This site rocks!

1) I have a 210CC and the livewell developed a crack near the water inlet/light area. This was later repaired by the factory, but it has cracked again. It seems to me that the livewell bottom is too thin to reliably hold 200-something pounds of water. I plan on sealing the crack with a little plastic and then pouring a gallon of polyester resin into the livewell (and protect the drain of course). Is this a good idea or bad ?
(p.s. I already tried calling Triumph again, left a voicemail, and never got a call back)

2) I bought one of those Bigfoot variable livewell timers, and when I installed it, I left the old switch where it was and basically had the lead from that going to the Bigfoot and then to the pump (or something like that). Right after I installed it, it seemed to work good. Then, a month later when I wanted to use it, it wouldn't work. I checked the connections and tried switching some around, but then I smelled plastic melting and discovered I fried the pump. I bought a new pump, but I don't want to hook up the timer and fry another pump. Any ideas what I did wrong ? (should I get rid of the old switch altogether and not try to run 2 switches ?)

Your comments are appreciated.

Thanks and happy holidays,
John Berni
Kaptain Ladies Drink Free

[Dick@merrittmarine]

John, Welding the crack again, should solve your problem, sounds like it did not get heat penatration. We haven't seen this as a problem here at MM. Pouring resin in won't work, it does not stick to polyethylene. Not sure what the electrical problem is but why didn't the fuse go first?

Dick

[LadiesDrinkFree]

Thanks Dick. Actually, I already tried my own brand of plasti-welding with a torch and extra Roplene, but I kinda made a mess and I was looking for a way to cover it up. At this point, I think it's sealed but looks bad. I'm going to try to melt some plastic in a pan like I saw someone mention in a post and pour it over the repair to make it look better. One other reason I'm not going with the polyester resin is that it would be a shame to have to say "This boat has no fiberglass or wood in it - well, uh, except the baitwell...".

I'm not really sure what happened with the baitwell timer, but I'm going to try to wire the timer directly (of course, with a fuse, but skip the factory switch - skip trying to have 2 controls for it...).

Thanks for your help! This site is invaluable. I like the mods I've seen on this site, have already done some, and am in process of doing some more.

Happy holidays,
John Berni

[Jman]

ladiesdrinkforfree, what year is your boat? I just bought a 2004 210 cc I have a issue with the floor of one of my fish boxes ( port stern box) it looks like the material was not evenly distributed througout the floor real thin I'm really starting to have second thoughts about this boat . I think there are some Issues that really need to be addressed by triumph

[LadiesDrinkFree]

Hi Jman,

Originally, I bought a Logic 210 around February of 2000. Then, I had some issues - mainly with the t-top cracking at the welds in a few places. A few unsuccessful repair jobs and a new t-top later (all at the expense of Logic & Triumph, though I ended up being without my boat for a total of about 4-6 months), I was given a new hull. I had t-top problems still, and a year or 2 later the hull had developed about a foot-long crack in the floor, near the rear port t-top leg. So, I went another 3 months without a boat but received a brand new 2003 hull (my motor and the center console area and my accessories were transferred). However, my 2nd time out I had an electrical fire when I raised the boat's motor before hopping into a bar - luckily I was able to put it out quickly and no one got hurt. The reason for the fire was either nicks in the power cords that got wet inside the starboard rear compartment (where the oil tank is) and/or the wires were not replaced with the correct thickness...anyway everything's good now and every time I had a problem, Triumph did give me some kind of goodie to make up for it (i.e. I now have a bow dodger, t-top curtains, coaming pads). Well, actually, I still have a crack in my t-top and Triumph refused to fix it - saying it was no longer under warranty, but I think I'll be getting that fixed for about $65 next Friday and I think it might be fixed for good.

So, I've been through a lot with this boat in the past and used to have to call many times in order to get customer service, but in the end I've ended up with a boat that I still like very much. I like the lifetime hull warranty and feel confident that Triumph will replace it with a new one years from now if necessary. I've also benefitted because the hulls keep getting better - there's all sorts of little things they've improved each time. I'm surprised your fishbox has a thin bottom. I think my livewell problem is mainly because it's from the 2001 version.

By the way, I don't exactly baby my hull. I've definitely been rough on it in the past - I used to charge 25-40 miles offshore in the Gulf almost every week, at 25-30 mph on 2-3 foot seas.

Anyway, I'm pretty happy with my boat now and will probably keep it until I move up a few tax brackets (probably a long time from now .

[boomer812]

Hey guys Harbor Freight sells a plastic welder for around $15! I bought one and it works fine. You need a air source and it has a regulator on the hose and looks like a large soldering iron. It blows hot air out of small (1/4") hole. www.harborfreight.com Item 41592-1VGA.

Checked that site out. The welders are selling for 29.99.

[boomer812]

You are absolutely right. I saw mine in the sale paper a couple of years ago, it was marked down. I neglected to check the current price, but its still a good price if you compare it to others online. I looked for quite a while before I got one of their sale papers in the mail.

[recycle]

Will their plastic welding rods work on our boats?

Recycle