210 attitude

[recycle]

I just recieved a page from NC Sportsman magazine. My NC friend sent it to me because he knows how hard I've worked to get proper proping on my 210.

This ad, apparently from Triumph shows an ideal attitude of the boat on plane.

Maybe one of you folks up there can post it. I don't know how.

But the difference between it and the picture on this site is what I strive for.

I would like to know the set up for this boat, it has a F-150 like mine.

Tricked up photo?

Who knows? Tell me.

Recycle

[Philip Becklund]

I haven't seen the picture but I am curious. I am concerned that my 210 rides to nose down, not nearly as up as in the photo on top left of this site.

Does the phot you discuss show nose up more or down more.

[mowerchaotic]

Do either of you have trim tabs? If you don't, I would recommend getting them, because it can make a big difference in the "attitude" of your 210. I could be wrong, but I don't think you're going to raise or lower the bow a great deal by experimenting with props. I think the ideal setup has more to do with the rpms of the engine than anything else. You'll also find out that you want more flexability in how the boat rides when different sea conditoins warrant. You're not going to want the bow as high as the picture when it gets nasty.

mower

[Codfish]

I agree with Mowerchaotic. Bow attitude is a result of the trim of your engine/tabs, not the propeller. The further up you trim the bow, the less hull you have in the water, thus less drag and more speed. Lighter load also results in higher rpm for engine. Try it sometime and you will see. That is just another variable to consider when choosing a prop. When the seas are rough, I trim the bow down as far as possible to keep from jumping off the crests. Result is more hull in the water and less speed for the same throttle setting. That is why I use a prop that will run at or slightly above max RPM on the flat water but still have plenty of power when the going gets tough.

codfish

[Barry]

OK, I will jump into the discussion. I have had the same problem with my 200 hp yamaha, I have tryed different mounting holes, and any positive trim the prop ventelates. I have noticed that unlike props that I have used on other boats, the factory props do not have much cupping (which will help in tight turns and more trim). Also 4 blade props will allow for more positive trim. Trailer Boats mag. Sept 2004 has an excellent artical on props.
I am getting ready to order a 4 blade prop, but remember if you have a stainless prop, you can have more cup added to the prop by a good prop repair shop.
Another solution is a dolphin, but I am not a very big fan of the dolpins.

Barry (XY Design & Testing)

[recycle]

:lol:

I figured out how to scan and post the picture from the Triumph ad.

Whoope for me.

Look at the difference in the ad and the picture on the site.

I like the way the ad rides.

Barry, what size and brand 4 blade are you ordering. Some of my best performance has been with a 4 blade 13.75 x 18 Yamaha. I'm thinking about a 14 x 19 4 blade SOLAS. Does anyone have any experience with this prop?


Recycle

[Barry]

Dear Recycle, I am looking at the Stiletto Part # ST37419 (Yamaha 14 1/4 x 19 4 blade) that I had found for about $355.00. The is the bay III series.
Barry

[Putershark]

Hate to break your bubble (would be really cool if one could),

But that 210 in the picture just went and over a small 1 (maybe 2 foot) roller wave (look at the passengers position) and that is not a normal running attitude or angle of attack for the 210. Now I had a 210 with a 200 HPDI, and Doel Fin and in smooth water never (Throwing a Rooster Tail doing 53 plus MPH and the Doel Fin ABOVE the water surface with me screaming Ye... Haw :P ) never had her break water that far aft when running.

Maybe if you mounted a F4 fighter turbo Jet on the stern you could Here again, most hulls no matter how much power you apply are only going to return so much speed due to hull shape and drag. No, most times I had her breaking water right right at the CG (Center of Gravity) point which was just aft of the console when trimmed out correct.

Now granted a new prop can do many things for performance improvement and I blew out many a 3 bladed prop when I brought that 200 HP beast up. That is why I say try a 4 bladed 3 pound Pro Pulse prop

http://www.propulse.se/english/index.html

(Good Price Point @ West Marine) and it worked great for me and is what I still now use. One can play with the different pitch settings for the different loads till you get it dialed in for your rig. Afterwards if you need a extra knot or so of top end speed and have 400 dollars burning a hole in your wallet and always run in deep water, then go get a Stainless Prop of the same size and pitch and save that 100 dollar Pro Pulse prop as a back up unit that can set inside your boat and NEVER rust.

Tight Lines!
Dave

[Philip Becklund]

I have trim tabs. I have trimmed the motor to where it cavitates then put her down little with tabs up to try to get some air under nose.

Maybe these deep V hulls run like this, but when I hit a swell or wake sometimes the boat cuts port or starboard hard. Sometime I think she should ride more nose up, but honestly this is the first boat I've had that isn't an aluminum car topper.

When I run back into port most other boats seem to have a higher attitude.

[FISH2XS]

Over the years, both from personal experience and the experiences of friends, I have found stainless a bad material for props.

I would like much better to pay the price to repair an aluminum prop than have a collision with a stainless that results with no or slight damage to the prop but major damage to the drive shaft and/or powerhead.

Aluminum is forgiving, stainless is not.