Inner/Outer Hull Drains

[Codfish]

I hope this doesn't bore you all but I need to ask. I want to do the drain install on the transom to void water between the inner and outer hulls. Could someone post a photo or two and the specs on placement so I can do this correctly the first time? I have the plugs already.

Has anyone done this install to their '04 210CC and found water present as in the older models. In other words, is this install absolutely necessary for the newer boats?

Just wondering. codfish

[ILLOGICAL GGC]

I AM OF THE OPINION THAT ANY MODEL YEAR OF OUR BOATS WOULD BE SUCCEPTABLE TO WATER ENTERING THE FOAM. ANYWHERE THERE IS A SCREW, THERE COULD BE WATER INTRUSION. MY 01 HAS A CRACK UNDER THE CONSOLE BEHIND THE MEGGA HATCH DRAIN AND ALL MY MEGGA WATER GOES IN THE FOAM. I ALSO DO NOT HAVE MY REAR FLOOR COVER SCREWED DOWN, CAUSE I LIKE TO BE ABLE TO ACCESS THAT AREA WHERE THE PUMPS AND FUEL TANK ARE AT A MOMENTS NOTICE. ALL THOSE SCREW HOLES ARE NOT SEALED WITH RULE AND I JUST DONT WORRY ABOUT WATER IN THE BILGE AREA ANYWAY--- THERE'S NOTHING THERE WATER CAN HURT.
I DO HAVE THE FOAM DRAIN INSTALLED TO ALLOW THE WATER TO CLEAR THE FOAM AND THE GOOD THING ABOUT THE 210CC IS THAT ALL FOAM AREA WATER WILL DRAIN DIRECTLY TO THE TRANSOM AS OPPOSED TO THE 190/186 MODELS OF EARLIER YEARS.
ROBERT

[handgun]

I put them on my 04 210 CC in the middle of last season. During install I had maybe a cup of water drain out over several days. At the end of the season I had about the same. The boat has spent most of the winter sitting bow high with the plugs removed and should be good and dry when this season starts.

Rick

[LadiesDrinkFree]

Codfish, I guess I'll just have to install the drain and post a pic myself !

I called Triumph. They tried to convince me not to do it on my own. They said to go see a dealer, but I managed to convince them otherwise. The main valid point they had was that if you find that your inner hull keeps getting water in it, and you call up Triumph and they end up trying to take care of it for you, if they happen to decide that the water came in through the drain you yourself installed, then they will fix it but charge you for all costs they incurred to fix the installation (which may include hauling the boat back to the factory...).

So, point is make sure to do it right and if you do later start getting a lot of water coming in, first make sure it's not your drain or the seal on it that's letting it in.

The rep did try to find the spec sheet but after 5 minutes could not. Instead, he explained that there should only be one drain hole and it's center should be placed 2 inches above the bottom edge of the transom and one inch to starboard/right of the center line (since there's a thin stainless bar running bow to stern). He also said to use a stainless drain. I'm gonna use brass (stainless drains aren't readily available, but brass must be fine) - just don't use a plastic drain. He also mentioned to use a 1 inch paddle bit (of course just make sure the size matches the drain you buy). Lastly, he said that after you seal it with elastomeric, turn it one full turn (to help seat the sealant I guess), and don't put it in the water for at least 3 days. Also, of course, before you install the drain, make sure to let all the water drip out until it's dry (which others on this site have said can take weeks but I plan it taking just days, like handgun mentioned). I'll post a pic when I'm done.

>&lt)))'>

Good post Free. Looking forward to your updated post.

Chief

[Putershark]

Hey Free,
Call John over at Heartland (link will be at the bottom of this note) and you can either have them do the work, or pick up the stainless drains and install them yourself. It is not that far of a drive south from Tampa and if needed, go the Heartland web page and have it create door to door directions by clicking on the "Contact and Survey forms" tab and then click on the bottom link. You then enter in your address and the dealership address and it will create directions for you.

Enjoy!

[LadiesDrinkFree]

Thanks Chief and Putershark.
I'm going with bronze actually - the Perko bronze fitting with t-handle brass plug - about $22 @ West Marine and spare plugs are readily available (though at $13 a piece) and the bottom fittings (i.e. livewell) are bronze anyway. I bought one today there and also #8 x 3/4in bronze wood screws, and went ahead and drilled the hole. I used a 15/16" paddle bit. I wanted a really tight fit and planned on doing a little sanding and notching, but it turns out I won't have as snug a fit as I was hoping - I wished I used a 7/8" paddle instead, but it's too late now (and probably doesn't really matter (I hope).

I drilled in about one finger's worth. I was surprised that the hull was actually about an inch thick there. Foam was right up on it. I drilled it at about 2 inches up and then one inch right, but it seems like you don't have to be too accurate with it (but if you're gonna err, err up and right I believe). A tiny bit of water came out but I'm talking drips. In 3 hours, maybe a shot glass amount came out, but the boat was about level and the water may have just dribbled onto the bunks. I just raised up the front a few minutes ago, but I'll be surprised if more than a glass ends up coming out.

So, it looks like I really didn't need to install a drain hole at this time (no inner or bottom hull cracks and no problems with my thru-hulls), but I just had to know for peace of mind and it'll be nice to easily check it once in a while as the years go by.

I'll post a pic in about a week.

P.S. I love that paddle bit. I previously made other holes on the boat with a hole-saw bit, but the hole took a while, got really hot and was never clean - always needed some sanding and/or a razor, but the paddle bit made a real clean and quick hole in the hull. Sold!!

[Dick@merrittmarine]

We have installed many drains on 210s, in fact I believe we started doing it when the 210s were first introduced. We used the plastic drain plug assys. We have not had a falure! Plastic plugs and bases are used on all models that Triumph manufactures. Recently we started to use the stainless drain assy. that's used on the 191s, it looks better. We don't reccomend turning the assy. one complete turn since the transom isn't perfectly flat and could wipe an area clean of Rule [which by the way, sticks to plastic]. We just wiggle it as we push the base to the transom, then screw it down.
A brass plug should have a seal or gasket, if it does not, it takes to much pressure to seal it off and could lossen the base.

Dick

[LadiesDrinkFree]

Thanks for clearing that up, Dick.

During my lunch hour I just went out to TA Mahoney's here in Tampa, FL, and found Marpac (by Donovan Marine) stainless drain plug assemblies for $11. They are just like the Perko bronze ones (and with 3 screw holes), but stainless, with a flange on the plug and an o-ring on it, with a retaining wire, and slightly bigger (but still just barely under 1inch and should fit the 15/16" hole I already drilled well). They don't have t-handles, however, but that is actually better since I plan on removing the plug only a few times a year and don't want my drain plug to be a snag hazard. I'm going with one of those.

[Codfish]

Merritt Marine Dick,

I will use one of the black plastic drains, with the red seal on the plug. Could you tell us where your people put the center of the hole? And do you install one or two of them?

codfish