If you cant fish....work on the boat

[Putershark]

Originally Posted by Codfish

All,

Here is my entire question. I wonder what damage, if any, can be done by leaving the perco in "ALL". Does that just increase the amps available or is there a rise in the volts as well. I suppose there is no voltage rise or we would all be burning up the wiring harness.

I have an onboard charger for both batteries. I leave home with them topped off with charge. If I am fishing for two or three days, using the electronics all day with engine off, the #1 battery can get pretty low on charge. I am wondering, absent the logic of a back up battery for starting, what concern or damage could result if I just left the perco in "ALL" for the entire time so electronics have full power.

Another question would be, is the outboard alternator just charging the battery used for starting, and would it charge both if "ALL" postition was used?

Have I confused any of you experts out there? I know I am. Talk to me.

Codfish

• None, but if you dump both units then you will not have any back up battery for re-starting the engine.
• AMPS only if wired correct... If not, I think you would have already "smoked" a few items
• The Outboard would "maintain" both at there current levels... I have not see a Alternator ever re-charge a battery very well (if at all) and only keeps putting back, what is being used... So if you have 50% of a charge CCA wise, then it will keep it at 50% CCA or MCA (Cold cranking amps / Marine cranking amps). So much better to put them on a slow 2 to 6 amp re-charge to bring them back up slowly to the correct level, this so the Outboard can help keep it at that point. Here again, quality AGM batteries will save you a lot of grief with this issue and much better than using old Wet Cell Technology.
• I also switch batteries from 1 to 2 and back to 1 at each re-start during the day. Here again, I do a lot of running and gunning with the engine shut down many times as I work different flats with the trolling motor. Many guys just start up one time and keep it running all day long so that system may not work as well. Trust me though, using quality AGM batteries http://www.odysseysoutheast.com/odys...-batteries.php that can handle being dumped very low amperage wise and re-charged again, survive this process much better than any wet cell unit due to the AGM design. AGM units also take the pounding of running much, much, better and can be mounted even upside down and suffer no serious effects (if any) from doing such.
• Worse case, carry some jumper cables with you and if you have a trolling motor on-board, just disconnect one of the trolling motor units from the other (in 24 volt systems) and use one to jump start your engine again if needed

Hope this helps?

[Codfish]

Thanks for the info Dave.

I did not realize the alternator just maintains. Good info to know. I realize the need for starting capability in a backup way. I will have to move my Perco switch to an outside access I guess, so I can switch from battery to battery like you do. I don't start lots of times each day but it would be a pain to have to lift the console each time to get at the switch.

Codfish

[OspreyVic]

Putershark made some real good points.

We always re-charge our two Lifeline, Group 31 AGM Batteries after any boat trip, and if it has been more than two weeks since the last outing, we hook up the charger before going out.

We never put a battery away unless it is fully charged. If I was up north where it freezes, then I would hook up the charger at least every 60 to 90 days.

Usually it only takes between 30 minutes and two hours and both batteries are back at full charge.

We personally hate the Perco traditional OFF-1-BOTH-2 battery switch, and replaced ours before the boat hit the water the first time, but that is one of those personal choice things.

[k9reno]

Well again I had time to work on the boat but not fish. Thats the problem with having to tow 2.5 hrs to fish decent waters.
I am now better equipped to fish the fresh water for the stripers and walleyes. I finally got and installed a trolling motor on my 210 cc with bow rail.
I fished with little casino and he had a motor mounted trolling motor on his 210 and I was really impressed with how well it moved the boat and the ease of use, so I got a Minn Kota rip tide 80lb thrust motor mounted trolling motor.
I got it installed Monday. The installation was really a lot easier than I thought it would be. I mounted the control box on the floor of my cc under the table i made for the auto pilot pump. I mounted it on a 3/8 piece of plastic board to keep it up a little just in case. The motor mounted on the cavation plate on my motor. Fit great and solid. Snaking the cable to the cc was a breeze. ( thanks to Dick at merritt for the info on any potential problem spots where the cable snaked through, there were none). I found 2 deep cycle batss with 115 Ahrs and 195 reserve, at a price I could afford. they mounted no problem. The last thing was the cable from the control pad. I put it through a hole under the dash in line from where I mounted the control panel. And low and behold everything worked.
The only thing I havent finalized was securing the cable to the motor so it wont tangle or get pinched. I have a temp hook up. Any ideas on how to better secure it out of the way would be greatly appreciated.
I attached pictures on what the set up looked like.

[ILLOGICAL GGC]

You Keep That Up And You Will Not Come Back To The Salt Again!!!!

[OspreyVic]

WOW Dick, that really looks great. Now lets us know if you like the performance.

[NCangler]

Very cool Dick. Please let us know how it works. I'm looking to get into some slow trolling for stripers here in NC too and this would be very helpful. BTW...again if you can get out here for the Triumph Owners Tournament in late July you can fish with me on my boat.

[Codfish]

Looks very nice Dick,

You have probably already thought about this but, I would want to route the power cable up the back side of the motor shaft and then around the shaft just under the bottom of the hood so it enters the boat as near to the pivot as possible. That would be the least amount of movement for the cable when you raise/lower the motor. You could then have the cable routed through the wire and steering port in the transom well into the starboard hatch area for continued route to the CC. I would have to think some time on how to attach the wire to the motor but strong sealants, like elastomeric would be a starter for me. Maybe a screw or two into the bottom of the hood pan with plastic wire holders. Good luck figuring that one out.

Hope that helps. Codfish