Running Lightbulb replacement

[JollySickTime]

This may sound funny …………..no jokes please… but has anyone had problems changing the running lights on the bow… I set off yesterday at 3:00 am for fishing and when I got on the water and turned on the running lights only the top white light worked ( and yes.. I tried the toggle both ways) When I got home I planed on replacing the bulb and when I removed the 2 screws the wire attaching the light is so short(1/2”) I couldn’t even turn the light over to replace the bulb. Looking for the path of the wire was no use because it goes into the hull somewhere. As luck would have it, when I tried the switch again the light now works after some black water drained out but I know it’s only time. The wire is so short that even if I cut it to put on a new light it would be very difficult to join the new wires to the light because they are so short. I consider myself a jack of all trades and changing a bulb shouldn’t be this hard.

[k9reno]

if there using the same perco lights as on my 210 you dont need to turn them over. I just take out the three screws and lift the cover off. the bulb is pointed on both ends and just snaps out. my prob with the lights not working consistantly is corosion on the contacts. I clean them and they work again. I do have a wire problem as one contact wire broke off and is next to impossable to soilder back on. if you look in the anchor locker there is an access plate. open it and you should be able to gain access to the wires where they connect from the lights to the boats wiring. Instead of cutting them.

[saltydawg]

I had to change my lights on an old boat. I took some trot line and tied into the wires and taped them with duct tape several times not to pull out. then I went to the switch and started to gently pull, then it turned into a tug of war...finally I got the trot line/ wire fed back to the switch. after I did that i cut the trot line and and tied the new wire to the end and pulled the trot line till the fresh wire was back and it left me with plenty to work with.
Note about copper wire that water will travel along way inside the sheath and electrolysis will break it down deep into the length.
when I worked offshore as a commercial diver I had to make wiring water proof to extreme depths... I still used the same techniques when working on my trailer or boat just to be "safe".....
1. make sure there is plenty of slack and if not sure ad an extra 12" or so.
2. I skin the ends 1 inch back from the end if using old wire skin back until it is shinny again and an inch from there. replace if you cant find shinny wire.
3. use sand paper or emery to polish the wire.
4. Place the wire end to the halfway over lapping the other wire to be joined.
5. twist together tightly.
6. then I use a small butane soldering torch ( from radio shack) because it heats fast and is very portable with out electric cords, and solder the wire until the whole connection is tinned.
7. then I use liquid tape after the wire is cool to touch, and let the first coat dry.
8. I give the wire a "torpedo wrap" with electric tape and add a second coat on top with liquid tape.
9. then a second wrap of tape on top of that.
any open ends that need to be connected to switches and such I skin back and tin the wire first and then seal at the sheath with liquid tape to keep moisture out. before bending and connecting to hardware.
hope this can help

[elroy]

The problem might not be the light bulb. I had the same problem, took the light apart tested the bulb and it was fine. The problem I think was in the toggle switch because after several tries the light came on and now works, for how long who knows?

[braley]

The shortness of the wire on the bow light may be due to it being routed through rule sealent from the bow of the boat into the bow pulpit. When I had to move my bow light I had to delaminate the bow pulpit and work enough wire forward to the light. If you do this make sure to reseal with rule. There should be an access hatch in your anchor locker to get at the wire in the bow.

[BuckShot]

I also had a problem with one of my running lights. I have the same set up as k9reno, all I had to do was remove the screws, the bulb tested good. I just needed to clean the contacts.

Has anyone looked into LED replacements ?

[Mike in Maine]

I'm still trying to figure out how to raise my anchor/nav light on my T-top. It is still down in the travel mode. I've tried everything and I don't want to force it. I'm waiting for a response from my dealer or some help from here.
Have a great weekend.

M I M

[MolarBoater]

I have always been ready for bulb problems. But, I have never had to replace one bulb on my boat or trailer! I don't understand it, they just don't seem like they should last one season.

On my 6th season....same old bulbs.

I have used "bulb grease" on the contacts to prevent the bulbs from corroding into the sockets, maybe that has been the trick.

[Lazy Loafer]

M I M

I am assuming the light mast mounted on my 190 Bay T-Top is the same as on yours. There is a plastic, ribbed collar just above the rachet gizmo that, when loosened (counterclockwise) releases the mast, and tightens (clockwise) to lock it in the position of your choosing. Mine was stuck the first time I tried to lower the light but a little silicone spray did the trick.

[MolarBoater]

Crap.

You boast about something and ole Murphy's Law comes down and bites you in the arse.

Had my first trailer bulb go out this weekend. My wife did it.

No biggy, I had a spare and popped it in and that was that.