My Transom Well Modification

[Stalker]

Fishahn,
Are your wells empty, or do they have the fillers in them? Mine had fillers in them, I suppose to limit the amount of water able to fill the well. I would rather not use them but I still don't know why they are even there. I got a reply about support for the transom, but that could be done with filling the wells in as well.

[Fishahn]

Stalker,
my wells did have the foam filler in them originally, it was water logged and a bit nasty when I checked it out first, so I did remove the filler. now wondering if I should have just left the whole mess alone!

what did support recommend?

I did this mod a year or so ago and used the clear screw on deckplates. Still leaked. I redid everything a month or so ago and used the snap in type deckplates. They have a much better gasket system. Ruled around the outside of the hatch cover. No leaks yet!

[NCangler]

Greyoldchief, do you have a link to the type plate you used or a picture? I'd like to add this modification to the Triumph Modifications and Maintenance DVD I"m working on so I'd like to find the best solution for this issue. Thanks!
Randy

Originally Posted by greyoldchief

I did this mod a year or so ago and used the clear screw on deckplates. Still leaked. I redid everything a month or so ago and used the snap in type deckplates. They have a much better gasket system. Ruled around the outside of the hatch cover. No leaks yet!

[NCangler]

I tried the foam fillers, which limit the volume of water that can accumulate in there, thus less weight. But they were a mess when I pulled the covers to clean out again. Last time I went with the deck access lids and would just unscrew them from time to time and use a wetvac to vacuum the water out. That worked pretty well.

Originally Posted by Fishahn

Stalker,
my wells did have the foam filler in them originally, it was water logged and a bit nasty when I checked it out first, so I did remove the filler. now wondering if I should have just left the whole mess alone!

what did support recommend?

Here's a link to the deck plates. I didn't get mine at Boatersworld, but they're the same plate.

What I did was take off the hatch cover and cleaned them. Applied a thick bead of rule around the inside of the hatch (to use as a gasket) and let it set overnight. I then mounted the deck plates and reinstalled the hatch adding extra screws. After tightening everything down, I ruled completely around the outside of the hatch. So far so good.

I had a difficult time with the screw on type plates because my hatch covers were not perfectly flat. This made it very difficult to screw the deck plate covers on and off and I think this is what caused them to leak.

Good luck with your mod!

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/166610451msk.htm

[Codfish]

Hello All,

Just noticed that this topic is hot again this year. My mod has not remained water tight. It leaks to this day. I simply pull the inspection plates after any trip where the transom is awash most of the day. I sponge out the water, let it air dry and put the plates back on. The warpage of the factory plates and the lip of the void area make it difficult to get it leak free. I have resisted filling the channel between the grey factory plate and the wall of the transom well, as some have. I may do that or just make some new, tighter fitting plates in the future. For now the infrequent removal of water is not all that troublesome.

Randy, If you include this mod in your video, how about also talking with the factory about fixing this once and for all. A tighter fitting plate, that is judiciously sealed with Rule should do it once and for all. They just need to make the template for the plates a little larger so they fit tight. I hate it when sand and scales get into the channel around the edge of the plates and you have to let it all dry then vacumm the stuff out. We shouldn't have to fill that void with Rule to solve a simple problem.

I LOVE MY SUZUKI. ON THE FOURTH SEASON WITH ZERO TROUBLE. GREAT GAS MILEAGE TOO!

Codfish

[NCangler]

I contacted Dick at Merritt Marine concerning the two questions posted earlier in this thread.

Those boxes are for structure. It's needed to give the boat enough strength to handle high horsepower.

There is some movement in that area so Rule is the best solution. Welding will work however with the expense of welding it would be uneconomical to do so, you would also have to replace the gray plates with a custom plate made from the same material as the boat in order to complete a weld.

I will contact the factory to see if we can come up with a better solution for taking care of this. Stay tuned.

[JollySickTime]

I learn something new everytime I log on...... Thanks.... I also like your two extra rod holders. Nice touch

[Codfish]

Jolly Stick,

I put those in specifically for salmon and tuna trolling. I can run two rods, one short one long, in the prop wash. Works pretty good.

Codfish